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-   -   e53 4.8is Front Drive Shaft Help Please? (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/109695-e53-4-8is-front-drive-shaft-help-please.html)

brucemillar 01-25-2019 01:50 PM

e53 4.8is Front Drive Shaft Help Please?
 
My Friends


Please help me out here if you can?


I need to replace my (RHD) Right Side Front Drive Shaft.



Problem: We cannot get the old shaft to come out from the trans box?



Are we missing a trick here? My guy who is doing the work has tried slide hammers, drilling a bolt into the old shaft to get a ratchet strap onto it & using old hub puller.



It will not come past the circlip. My guy tells me it should allow the shaft to pull out. We can see the clip and the shaft has small amount of movement but it will not come free.


We do not want to mess with transfer box if at all possible. He had suggested removing the opposite shaft and trying to push something (a bar) thru the box to knock it out from the other side. I am not keen on this as we could damage the trans box.



  • How should this come out?
  • Any tricks on getting it out?

STOCKSILVER02 01-25-2019 06:21 PM

What do you mean right side front driveshaft? There one front and one rear driveshaft.

brucemillar 01-25-2019 06:29 PM

I am referring to the shafts with the cv joints that drive all four wheels.


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STOCKSILVER02 01-25-2019 06:44 PM

I'm a little confused lol....There is a front differential which houses the 2 front cv axles. From there, there is the front driveshaft which hooks up to the front part of the transfer case. From the transfer case, there is the rear driveshaft that hooks up to the rear differential which houses the rear axles. If its the front CV Axle, don't be shy. Carefully hit it with a big hammer at the end of a big flathead and it should free up enough to pull out. DO NOT hit the seal as it will damage it.

brucemillar 01-25-2019 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STOCKSILVER02 (Post 1153205)
I'm a little confused lol....There is a front differential which houses the 2 front cv axles. From there, there is the front driveshaft which hooks up to the front part of the transfer case. From the transfer case, there is the rear driveshaft that hooks up to the rear differential which houses the rear axles. If its the front CV Axle, don't be shy. Carefully hit it with a big hammer at the end of a big flathead and it should free up enough to pull out. DO NOT hit the seal as it will damage it.



Thank you. It will be the front CV Joint. We will try again tomorrow in the daylight. I appreciate your help here.


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andrewwynn 01-26-2019 12:45 AM

The good news is the right CV is a lot easier to remove than the left.

Get under and set up a nice big chisel/breaker bar, caught on a bump of the CV and use a BFH to bang it. 2-3 hits it should come off.

If that doesn't work, I would cut a notch in the axle in a good spot where you can use leverage to pry.


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Victorious4.8is 01-26-2019 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1153230)
The good news is the right CV is a lot easier to remove than the left.

Get under and set up a nice big chisel/breaker bar, caught on a bump of the CV and use a BFH to bang it. 2-3 hits it should come off.

If that doesn't work, I would cut a notch in the axle in a good spot where you can use leverage to pry.


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:iagree: The above technic works very well. Don't be afraid to really hit it! :stickpoke Love taps won't get it out, give it a nice solid firm smack and it should pop right out. Try and keep the axle as level as possible. Sometimes rotating the axle in between hits helps find that sweet spot as well. You will get it out! :thumbup:

brucemillar 01-26-2019 03:55 PM

It will be a few days now before we can get back in this.

Thank you all for the great help. Keep it coming.

The thinking is it may have been damaged when it broke the CV joint.

We will try to hold it level before giving it another few whacks. FYI. My guy still an 8mm bolt into the shaft and we still cannot get it out.


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SlickGT1 01-26-2019 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucemillar (Post 1153275)
It will be a few days now before we can get back in this.

Thank you all for the great help. Keep it coming.

The thinking is it may have been damaged when it broke the CV joint.

We will try to hold it level before giving it another few whacks. FYI. My guy still an 8mm bolt into the shaft and we still cannot get it out.


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You guy needs to go to the gym and get himself bigger muscles so that he can hit that shit with a 10lb mini sledge.

andrewwynn 01-27-2019 02:03 AM

Right angle grinder will cut a groove you can put on a washer and a snap ring and get 1000s of pounds of force.

Not long ago somebody had a jammed snap ring and he had to remove the differential to get it out. If I recall correctly the dif was saved and he only had to replace the already destroyed CV.

Crowz 01-27-2019 03:04 AM

I went through this with mine when I changed them. One has "difficult" the other was a royal pain.

Its amazing how much force it takes to get the suckers off. I had to replace BOTH of my front cv axles because of the problems getting the damn things out of the front chunk. Neither was damaged till I "removed" them from the car. I had to do this since I had to press the cv axles out of the wheel hubs and the only way to get them to the press was to remove the cv axles from the front diff. Again I destroyed both axles getting them out.

I found a large heavy duty pry bar coming from under the car and knocking the crap out of it worked best.

I bought a tool for removing them but it was to small to go around the axle.

brucemillar 01-29-2019 06:28 PM

My mechanic returned today with a tool he fabricated to fit in the end of his Slide Hammer (see pic). He had previously drilled holes into the shaft to accept the tool.

Sadly this also failed. We are running out of ideas now.

Any other thoughts?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6d21379dfc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...68ada12826.jpg


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STOCKSILVER02 01-29-2019 06:55 PM

Try spraying some WD40 and let it soak.....Something has to give LOL

STOCKSILVER02 01-29-2019 07:07 PM

I mean it really shouldn't be that difficult. Really strange....

wpoll 01-29-2019 07:44 PM

I'm guessing that at this stage it's too late to change plan and leave the inner tri-union joint outer section in place and simply replace the other axle parts without pulling that section from the diff.?

BTW, here's a tool that might help - an inner CV joint puller...

http://www.sulco.co.nz/320J7509.jpg

andrewwynn 01-30-2019 01:43 AM

I think you are past being able to pound or push it out.

Read this thread:
New CV Axle won't go all the way in, and now I can't get it out!
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...4&share_type=t

I think you are in the same boat and will have to do what he did. I think the snap ring has gotten jammed somewhere and is past the point of being able to remove it without pulling out the differential.

I had the same problem in reverse. The snap ring was malformed and made it impossible to install, Fortunately I figured it out and swapped the old ring and it assembled fine.

I think it's possible to get the old CV out and rescue the dif but I think you need to remove the dif to do so.

brucemillar 01-30-2019 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1153668)
I think you are past being able to pound or push it out.

Read this thread:
New CV Axle won't go all the way in, and now I can't get it out!
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...4&share_type=t

I think you are in the same boat and will have to do what he did. I think the snap ring has gotten jammed somewhere and is past the point of being able to remove it without pulling out the differential.

I had the same problem in reverse. The snap ring was malformed and made it impossible to install, Fortunately I figured it out and swapped the old ring and it assembled fine.

I think it's possible to get the old CV out and rescue the dif but I think you need to remove the dif to do so.




Andrew


Sadly, I think you are correct and we are past knocking it out with a slide hammer. My fear is that we may damage the diff by keeping smashing away at it. That would be a disaster.


So how to get it out without doing any further damage?


How big a task is dropping the diff? The shaft is now too damaged to split and leave in situ due to our efforts to remove it.


So it either has to come out by force or, by dropping the diff.


Is there any specific BMW (or other make) of tool that can be used here?


Thank you for your help. It really is appreciated.


Bruce

SlickGT1 01-30-2019 09:22 PM

Unfortunately taking off the diff is a pain in the ass in itself.

Have you tried to attach a slide hammer to vise grips and go at it?

andrewwynn 01-30-2019 10:30 PM

The process is described in the linked thread above. Hard or not hard that's the only option. Odds very good dif is ok.

brucemillar 01-31-2019 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlickGT1 (Post 1153759)
Unfortunately taking off the diff is a pain in the ass in itself.

Have you tried to attach a slide hammer to vise grips and go at it?

My mechanic is making up a “stronger” tool to go on the the end of his slide hammer. If this fails we may look at going into the diff from the other side, pushing a bar through and whacking that.

Is this possible to do?

Can we see the end of the bad shaft if we drop the other shaft out and try to get a bar in there?

Many thanks

Bruce

andrewwynn 01-31-2019 11:32 AM

e53 4.8is Front Drive Shaft Help Please?
 
Actually: read that other post fully: he pushed the part out with hydraulics. I don't know if he pushed it in to get the clip to clear or pushed it out through the dif.

If the second you should be able to do on the car.

I posted on the other thread to ask about the possibility of removal without taking out the dif.

I think the clip is stuck bewteen the outer bearing and the internal gear and you'd have to remove the dif to separate.

andrewwynn 02-01-2019 02:43 AM

If your connection was solid (eg drill and tap) to attach the slide hammer then there is very little difference in pulling or pushing from the other side.

I'm not familiar with the inner workings of the dif to know if there is a clear path through the center.

Since the left CV has to come out before you can get the dif out I would be inclined to try a push possibility.

I think that the clip is jammed in a way that can't be pushed in or out and exactly like the example thread above, but it would be worth one more attempt.

I would consider one crazy possibility before removing the dif:

Using the replacement CV to determine exactly where the snap ring is, you could drill a hole in the dif casing where you can use a probe to push the snap ring up into the groove so it clears the obstruction.

After you can use an expansion nut to plug the hole.

The obvious problem is how to keep metal chips out of the dif in the end. If it's steel casing that shouldn't be too hard but either way you'll have a 1" hole to reach in once you extract the CV.

Ask the guy from the other thread of he thinks that would work.

brucemillar 02-07-2019 12:30 PM

Okay

Today we got the old shaft out using a slide hammer and fabricated tool.

Now we have another problem.

The new shaft will not go into the diff. This is because there is a bit of something floating around inside that we cannot get out and is stopping the new shaft from pushing in.

It’s looking like we will have to drop the diff and strip it to find what the floating bit is?

Do we need ramps to drop the diff?

Has anybody done this?


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STOCKSILVER02 02-07-2019 02:05 PM

1) You would have to lower subframe (8 e12 bolts). 2 for the rack and pinion and 3 on each side. control arms will hold it up.
2) Unbolt both motor mounts and lift engine about 3-4 inches (more may be needed but don't think so)
3) The diff itself has 4 16mm bolts.
4) should slide off

brucemillar 02-08-2019 04:46 PM

Can anybody help me out answer this please?

Looking for this diff... it’s difficult to find a 4.8 one... there are a few listed on there however they are in Lithuania...

Apparently the 4.8 litre comes With a 3.91 ratio diff?

I can find a few 3.91 ratio ones that say they have come out of the 3.0 litre motors....

I now need to find out if it has the 3.91 ratio internals even if it’s out of the 3.0 litre, will it bolt onto the 4.8 engine...


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STOCKSILVER02 02-08-2019 05:41 PM

Have you checked Ebay?

brucemillar 02-08-2019 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STOCKSILVER02 (Post 1154670)
Have you checked Ebay?


Yes I checked and there lots on there. But most require cross border shipping. I just to be sure that a 3.0 litre one is compatible with my 4.8 ?

andrewwynn 02-08-2019 10:27 PM

I'm pretty sure the diff is cross compatible you just need to make sure it's the correct ratio. BMW used a higher ratio for the 3.0 then the 8 cylinder models

e39_touring 02-09-2019 12:42 PM

In the US, the 3.91 ratio was only used on the 4.6 and 4.8is and is harder to find. 3.0s all had 4.10 ratio. If still legible, the ratio will be printed on the sticker on top. Mechanically, they all boot in the same.

It may be easier to upgrade to 4.10s front and rear from a manual 3.0.

brucemillar 02-10-2019 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e39_touring (Post 1154749)
In the US, the 3.91 ratio was only used on the 4.6 and 4.8is and is harder to find. 3.0s all had 4.10 ratio. If still legible, the ratio will be printed on the sticker on top. Mechanically, they all boot in the same.

It may be easier to upgrade to 4.10s front and rear from a manual 3.0.


Thank you. I European ebay I can see several diffs that are claimed to be 3.91 and "will fit 3.0d auto & 4.8is Auto"



What we want to do is (if we can be sure we are getting the correct ratio? is this:


Order up a 3.91 diff and get it sent over to me.
Replace the entire diff & shafts in one day.


If we strip the old diff down first, it may not buy us anything. We are not sure what holds the planet gears, in place, inside the diff.



The planet gear(s) have dropped, stopping the shafts from being re-installed. We believe they would be held up inside the diff by a bracket that has broken? But have no idea. I have never seen the innards of one of these diffs?


Can anybody see or, tell me, what holds the planet gears in place inside the diff. If we can fix that? we save the hassle of replacing the diff.....

Russianblue 02-10-2019 05:08 PM

Damn, this is a real shitter of a problem. Bad CV shaft leads to replacing the diff. Sorry you had to go through this bro. You have my sympathies!

brucemillar 02-11-2019 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russianblue (Post 1154836)
Damn, this is a real shitter of a problem. Bad CV shaft leads to replacing the diff. Sorry you had to go through this bro. You have my sympathies!


It's not good, that's for sure.


I still don't know what has allowed the internals to drop/come loose inside the diff casing? has anyb0dy got any ideas what could have gone wrong?



Without knowing that we could be loosing a diff that is perfectly serviceable. What holds the planet gears in their place inside the diff? is it molding or a bracket?

andrewwynn 02-11-2019 11:47 AM

Actually I thought I read a service note about never removing both CV at the same time or the dif gears might fall out of place. Not exactly sure how you are supposed to install the first time. You might be ok have to remove dif just to get everything back in place.

wpoll 02-11-2019 03:42 PM

Here's a picture of the front diff opened up...

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...0&d=1403714169

(Image from Bimmerfest)

It looks like the differential gears (which are not actually planetary gears) are supported in place by the output bearings (the tapered needle rollers)... :dunno:

andrewwynn 02-11-2019 06:54 PM

It looks like the cage that holds the main gear is broken. I think you can just replace the cage or the center gear and cage. I've seen sites with individual pieces of the differential and I would try to fix It. (Unless there isn't much cost difference). The thing is you have to remove dif either way so there is not a lot of diff(erence) in the time to pull it and take a peek other than if you are trying up a lift.

wpoll 02-11-2019 08:00 PM

I love that in the pic I posted above, you can see the end of a drive shaft and the c-clip sitting on the bench between the gear cluster and the housing... :yikes:

That must have taken some force…. :wow:

brucemillar 02-11-2019 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1154916)
It looks like the cage that holds the main gear is broken. I think you can just replace the cage or the center gear and cage. I've seen sites with individual pieces of the differential and I would try to fix It. (Unless there isn't much cost difference). The thing is you have to remove dif either way so there is not a lot of diff(erence) in the time to pull it and take a peek other than if you are trying up a lift.



It looks tonight like we will replace the diff. Partly due to the rarity factor of these things. I need to makes sure I do not lose the one I am attempting to buy. I may not easily find another. Then there is the time and effort to consider.

The car fights me all the way. My health is poor (Cancer) and I cannot do my own spannering anymore ,well at least not on this industrial scale, so I need to pay to have these things done.

It’s all very frustrating.


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andrewwynn 02-11-2019 08:08 PM

Sounds like the painful decisions are behind you. Keep the parts from the old maybe somebody can use. I'm sure xo guys will like to see what happened inside. Too bad can't teleport. I would volunteer to take apart the old one just for the experience.

brucemillar 02-11-2019 08:18 PM

It would be great if you could just pop round. But it looks like that it would involve a trans- Atlantic flight.

Your help along Ruth others on here has been invaluable. I thank you for that.

In the small world we live in I switched on my TV the other night and found myself watching “American Pickers” which (unless I have this wrong, was filmed in your current town Racine? The guy who was being “picked” being a local historian and knowledgeable chap about all things Racine.

I really enjoyed that.

bcredliner 02-11-2019 08:30 PM

The diff is a separate unit. The ring gear is bolted to the carrier and drops into the diff case. The pinion shaft is threaded and extends outside of the diff case and held in place by the pinion nut. The gear set is backlashed to correct tolerances. Best practice is to replace the ring and pinion as a set, especially if they have a bunch of miles on them.

bcredliner 02-11-2019 08:42 PM

If you haven't, remove all but one bolt on the reinforcement plate so you can swing it out of the way and get a much better angle to knock out the shaft with a straight bar or big screwdriver and a hammer. Shouldn't need a big hammer to get the snap ring to release but won't hurt to use one if need be.

andrewwynn 02-11-2019 08:54 PM

e53 4.8is Front Drive Shaft Help Please?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by brucemillar (Post 1154936)
It would be great if you could just pop round. But it looks like that it would involve a trans- Atlantic flight.



Your help along Ruth others on here has been invaluable. I thank you for that.



In the small world we live in I switched on my TV the other night and found myself watching “American Pickers” which (unless I have this wrong, was filmed in your current town Racine? The guy who was being “picked” being a local historian and knowledgeable chap about all things Racine.

I really enjoyed that.

I'll have to try to find that episode. The are a few Racine's in USA mine is Wisconsin. On lake Michigan

I have a gift of problem solving, I get to answer to the Man upstairs if I don't use my gift to help others. XO works great for that because half the time I'm solving my own current or future problem.

It's quite helpful to have a pair the same year. Several times one stolen a part from one car to make the other work.

Wife has both my original fuel pump and my cam position sensor. I moved mine to her car then bought Replacement for me. I've had to swap wheels between our cars and most recently mass airflow sensor trying to root out some strangeness

brucemillar 02-12-2019 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1154942)
I'll have to try to find that episode. The are a few Racine's in USA mine is Wisconsin. On lake Michigan

I have a gift of problem solving, I get to answer to the Man upstairs if I don't use my gift to help others. XO works great for that because half the time I'm solving my own current or future problem.

It's quite helpful to have a pair the same year. Several times one stolen a part from one car to make the other work.

Wife has both my original fuel pump and my cam position sensor. I moved mine to her car then bought Replacement for me. I've had to swap wheels between our cars and most recently mass airflow sensor trying to root out some strangeness


here you go. It was a great show and the guy came over very well.


https://www.cbs58.com/news/racine-co...erican-pickers


We are buying a replacement diff from Lithuania. It will be with us next week. The seller is comfortable that it is a straight swap with no adjustments required. We shall see how we go and I wil update this post. Thank you again for all your help here.

andrewwynn 02-12-2019 12:29 PM

Took a while to find. Season 16 EP 17. Hulu no ads

brucemillar 02-12-2019 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1155001)
Took a while to find. Season 16 EP 17. Hulu no ads


Andrew

I hope you enjoy the show as much as I did. Do please let me know. The chap they ouch came over really well.

The diff has now been ordered and I await delivery from Lithuania to the UK.

The seller has been helpful and knowledgeable on both the diff and the e53. Fingers crossed it is a straight forward swap over. We are ready to raise the engine etc.

I miss the car now so really want it back on the road.

andrewwynn 02-13-2019 01:53 AM

I watched the show and thanks a bunch. I want to get the guys books now. Racine is a famous manufacturing hub of the Midwest and they touched on many of the places founded here and still centered here.

Case/International harvester, Dremel, insinkerator (the most famous brand of garbage disposer) and the most famous; Johnson's Wax (maker of 100s of household products like Windex window cleaner, Raid bug killer, and Ziploc food storage.

One of the most famous people ever came from Racine: architect Frank Lloyd Wright, Coincidentally designed Johnson's wax headquarters.

andrewwynn 02-13-2019 01:55 AM

Re: miss the car boy do I know that feeling! When I blew my brake lines it took quite a while before I had the time to fabricate new ones and when I finally did, the damn O2 sensors were giving me fits and I couldn't pass emissions. It took almost 3 months before everything was resolved!


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brucemillar 02-13-2019 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1155031)
I watched the show and thanks a bunch. I want to get the guys books now. Racine is a famous manufacturing hub of the Midwest and they touched on many of the places founded here and still centered here.

Case/International harvester, Dremel, insinkerator (the most famous brand of garbage disposer) and the most famous; Johnson's Wax (maker of 100s of household products like Windex window cleaner, Raid bug killer, and Ziploc food storage.

One of the most famous people ever came from Racine: architect Frank Lloyd Wright, Coincidentally designed Johnson's wax headquarters.

Brilliant. Thank you for the update and info on Racine. A small world we live in 👍

I enjoy people like the guy on the show, who are prepared to share their extensive knowledge on stuff that may not be generally available.

I’m really glad you enjoyed it. I feel like I gave you something back for your help.

Have a great weekend. Let me know if I can help at any time.

FYI: I come from Kilmarnock in the West Coast of Scotland. Famous for Johnnie Walkers Whisky and other things 😇

EODguy 02-13-2019 05:38 AM

"FYI: I come from Kilmarnock in the West Coast of Scotland. Famous for Johnnie Walkers Whisky and other things [emoji56]"

If you're looking to adopt I'm available!!!

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andrewwynn 02-13-2019 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucemillar (Post 1155039)
Brilliant. Thank you for the update and info on Racine. A small world we live in 👍

I enjoy people like the guy on the show, who are prepared to share their extensive knowledge on stuff that may not be generally available.

I’m really glad you enjoyed it. I feel like I gave you something back for your help.

Have a great weekend. Let me know if I can help at any time.

FYI: I come from Kilmarnock in the West Coast of Scotland. Famous for Johnnie Walkers Whisky and other things 😇

I've been introduced to the world of fine bourbons but also will check out scotch whisky's as well. My wife gave me about half a bottle of Chivas Regal XV (15 year stuff; very good) for Christmas (snagged some leftover from doing sampling).

Wife just pointed out "well we are famous for cheese" and though CA makes more dairy now, wisconsin will always be 'america's dairyland' and it's awesome to be able to go to a store and buy 8 year old cheddar.

brucemillar 02-22-2019 08:45 AM

So, today we dropped the front diff and opened it up (see pics). What we see is a box of broken bits, smashed up gears and stripped spline shafts along with busted up inner casing. Oh there is some heavy duty paste, which in another life would have been used as diff oil.

What a mess.

So no we are refitting the replacement diff that came from eBay /Lithuania all the way to little old me in the UK.

We are feeling good so far and hope to update tonight saying that all is good and we are back & running smoothly again.

If anybody wants to purchase a cast metal bin full of crushed up bearings and fragments of shrapnel? Just drop me a note.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4afcb6c2ef.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...baa5823ed3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...01630f4925.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8e0a7dd017.jpg


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amancuso 02-22-2019 09:14 AM

That looks horrific!

Victorious4.8is 02-22-2019 09:24 AM

OMG! :yikes: Do you think all of this internal damage was a result of trying to get the shaft out or was there already some internal damage happening prior to trying to remove the shaft?

Glad your getting it worked out though! :thumbup:

Overboost 02-22-2019 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1155065)
Wife just pointed out "well we are famous for cheese" and though CA makes more dairy now, wisconsin will always be 'america's dairyland' and it's awesome to be able to go to a store and buy 8 year old cheddar.

Along with squeaky curds, I'm quite fond of the Sheboygan Coney up there. :rofl:

andrewwynn 02-22-2019 11:03 AM

That damage had to be from internal self destruct.(you can see rotational damage). I think the difficulty in removing the CV was a symptom not the cause. The paste not liquid is the clue (also completely dry gears).

So as costly as it was, evidence indicates that dif was shot and had the CV come out, you'd have set yourself up for the dif blowing apart at speed on the highway.

Blessing in disguise.

andrewwynn 02-22-2019 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overboost (Post 1155782)
Along with squeaky curds, I'm quite fond of the Sheboygan Coney up there. :rofl:



Squeaky are awesome. You can reset the squeak in a microwave! I was so happy to figure that out.

brucemillar 02-22-2019 03:01 PM

We are as sure as we can that the failure started with;

1) Diff oil leak
2) CV joint splitting
3) Diff running dry and exploding along with the CV shaft and slip-ring.

At the point of 3) we were always going to fail trying to remove the shaft. That was until we saw the excellent YouTube video on shocking it with a slide hammer & chain.

The diff is destroyed completely. Broken gears, internal mounts, gouging through lack of lubricant and eventual seizing.

Lucky it never let go at speed on the road.

All good now. Running like new with no noise, binding or leaks.

Thanks to all for your help.

Bruce




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