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Potential new owner, a few questions...
Hi all, I've got my eye on a particular pre facelift 4.4i E53. From my research so far, the things that I need to worry about when checking it over are the usual engine/headgasket checks, make sure the gearbox is working OK and the rear air suspension?
I'd like to find out where the temp needle should sit when the car is fully up to running temp? Also, Is there toe adjustment on the rear as the new MOT on the car says: Rear wheels at a slight angle but no movement in any suspension components. Can the rear toe be adjusted on these or is this a sign of some kind of accident damage? Other than that it all seems quite decent for the a relatively small amount of money. I can do most things myself and expect the usual BMW stuff like new thermostats being needed, a service, that sort of thing. Thanks in advance for any assistance. |
Don't forget timing chain guides! Google M62 timing chain guides.
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The temp needle is fake it points striaght up from about 65 to 110C it's nearly pointless.
Timing chain guide yr he most important factor I think the other stuff is minimal. The chain guides fail if people wait too long to change the tensioner. Telltale sign is Rattle at start up. The toe can be adjusted back and front DIY. Normal testing for loose joints doesn't work you have to release the spring pressure but nothing is too difficult to DIY on the suspension. I just replaced the front rearward control arms on wife's X5 and it was nearly impossible to break the tie rod free to adjust the allignment. I was able with pipe wrenches and stupid amounts of force and need to do it once more so I can get her steering wheel to point forward again. I will take pic or video Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
That's awesome, cheers. I'm no stranger to doing suspension arms etc. Almost always a ball ache. I imagine the chain tensioner is a case of compress it, hold it with a pin or something, fit it and withdraw the holding pin? Or is it a bit different on these?
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Chain tensioner is a five minute job once the air box is out of the way. It's 30 hr job and $1000 parts to do the chain guides
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Regardless of expertise it is always a good idea to take it to a well recommended independent shop the specializes in BMWs for a pre purchase inspection. 2nd opinion is well worth it.
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Plug into the OBD2 with a good reader and check for codes, as some are things only noticable as a code till it goes tits up. Foxwell NT-510 or NT-520 is a great value when you have a BMW and well worth it as insurance when buying a BMW to keep the suprises to a minimum.
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I've got an ELM327 reader and I also have an old laptop with INPA on it and a BMCABLES setup somewhere at home. I just don't know what the seller will say when I ask to scan it :D
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Glad I did as there were (from memory) 13 separate codes which all meant additional issues and work required affected the price. (In the end we were about $1,000 apart on a lower price and agreed to meet in the middle when another buyer came in and paid full price....) |
Elm will only find basic codes.
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Well the one I wanted didn't work out. I've seen a 4.6 which has got me interested but it does mention a rattle. It says that they thought it was the timing chain guides and changes those, the chain, the sprockets and the the tensioners but the rattle remained.
Seller believes it's the vanos unit now. Any ideas on the likelihood of that? I have done the bolts, cleaned the solenoids and changed all the seals on an E36 M3 Evo Vanos before, but not touched any other models. I'm tempted though. Though I'd prefer a facelift car the 4.6 appeals... And it has LPG. |
The base rattle is from tensionER. Find out if they put in an OEM tensioner when they did the chain guides. Chain guides fail when the tensioner fails. People will skip replacing the part that actually was the problem because it "looks" ok.
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I'll try. The seller says the rattle does change with engine speed. Does that still point at the tensioner?
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Rattle tends to fade over time like better after 20 minutes but I'd have to hear an audio clip to have any solid help.
Vanos are known to rattle there is a whole industry to fix it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
Most of the time you can use an auto stethoscope to pinpoint the source of the rattle. There are several possibilities that could be the problem. Could even be external. Troubleshoot, troubleshoot, troubleshoot. Suggest finding out if it is worse with a cold start, loss of performance, engine running rough etc.
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Yes engine stethoscope good plan.
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Zero chance I would buy a car so scanning codes. Also. Check emissions readiness. If not ready means seller reset reset recently.
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OK, so, another question. Sorry for asking all these...
Another one I've seen is dirt cheap and says "unfortunately there is a problem with the automatic transmission, when it's in reverse you must just touch the gas slightly at first then you can give it more gas, if you go to put your foot down it will kind of jerk and the same in drive for first but then the rest is ok." Chances a flush and a new filter will sort that?? Or avoid? |
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Ah sorry, I knew that I meant early 4.4 and assumed everyone else did for some bizarre reason :D so that should be the ZF 5HP-24? Do diesels run the GM box like Range Rovers?
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