Your transmission came off the production line on 16 October 2002 so it had all the final development fixes, including the stiffened A-clutch drum. I’ve just been looking through your post from the beginning. Although I realise this isn’t the main issue under discussion here, from the photo in your first post that looks like a 328 valve body assembly that you fitted as a replacement? Can you double check the number etched into the lower rear valve block on your original photograph as the resolution of the posted photo isn’t quite high enough for me to be sure? If it is a 328 then this is the wrong unit for a 4.6is, which has to have a 353 unit because the B-clutch and E-clutch valves are different. Your upper valve block should have ‘075’ etched/stamped on it, which is a further check.

https://i260.photobucket.com/albums/...pszousatxk.jpg

https://i260.photobucket.com/albums/...psr1fod0bx.jpg

https://i260.photobucket.com/albums/...ps45c303bb.jpg

Phil

So do you think I selected the wrong part (see updated first post) ? I was just trying to follow the instructions I've seen on threads posted here to select the valve body with the correct amount of coloured solenoids. Furthermore, many many times I have seen other users recommend the revmax rebuilt units. On the ordering page the part claimed to be compatible with 4.4 and 4.8 so I just assumed the 4.6 was compatible.
Did the supplier sent me the wrong valve body. Where would I go from here ? What would explain that the rebuilt valve body shifted through all the gears on an initial test drive.

attachments;
old valve body lower rear valve block number
old valve body upper valve block number
rebuilt valve body lower rear valve block number

The 328 valve body assembly is an old spec. with the 9mm main pressure valve land width, the old design of EDS5 damper, the earlier check valve springs, earlier restrictor orifice one-way valves, etc. The 4.8L they’re referencing is the 035 model of the 5HP24 which was used in the E39 B10/E52 Z8. They only made a total of 770 of these transmissions, but this model also used the 353 valve body assembly (the same as the E53 4.6is) so it is not the same as the 4.4L assembly. I’m not suggesting that this is the cause of your current problem, just pointing out that your valve body assembly replacement is the wrong one.

Back to the electrical/electronic stuff. The wiring diagram that you referenced earlier :

https://i260.photobucket.com/albums/...psdubwimnn.jpg

I actually produced for the L322 Range Rover. Obviously the E53 and L322 are close sisters but were you able to check that the pin connections are identical for the E53 from the newTIS info, because I haven’t checked this?

Phil

UPdates: Requested a return for the replacement valve body as it's the wrong one, As per RRPhil.

To do:
remove the new valve body from the transmission, and install my old unit.
buy and install a genuine bmw transmission filter, as per RRPhil claiming often times secondary brands can have the filter element sucked inside.
measure all the solenoid and pressure regulator resistances in my existing valve body for reference.

determine the canbus waveform and voltage specifications for my vehicle. start to troubleshoot the circuit and remove modules connected to the canbus until the poor signal / issue can be identified.

update the graphic in the previous post with correct pin numbers and resistances for resistance tests.

I have not been able to make any progress on this issue, very frustrating and this is the first time i feel like I've been defeated as a mechanic, don't know what to do next except park this thing in storage. need to know for sure before sinking money on any replacement part. I absolutely, 100% and for a fact need to pinpoint the issue. Going to try these 'expert for hire' auto mechanic websites, and get a mobile bmw tech who can give a second opinion on the issue.

I did make some notes from my weekend work attempting to give one last try at troubleshooting before having to move the vehicle to storage lot.

Dispite any other code, this one is the issue and is either caused by another code, or this code causes the EGS module to lockout and not sent power to the mechatronics and throw a fit.
0x00008D IKE: EGS signal line disturbed

Tried in sequence order to disconnect other modules on canbus, clear codes, restart car, failsafe mode message appears, and then re-scan for codes.
Disconnected: EGS, IKE, and DSC/ABS I didn't try to disconnect the DME, I didn't think of doing that because how would I start the engine.

I will try it down the road but for now I need the community here to come together and give me their opinions.

Since we have the same issue....almost.

Can you do me a favour and try to disconnect your DME then scan with ISTA?

I think I may have found/learned something...when DME is connected.

Can you share what your something is. Be detailed.
I have yet to try to disconnect the DME and then scan.

I'm going to try this two video's suggested by
upallnight

How to test a CAN bus network with a meter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JicbzR3Juh0
TECH TIP CAN BUS DIAGNOSTICS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YWHrTTmWE8

You mentioned you had EGS line disturbed .

I removed my DME and was able to clear faults on my transmission and VTG

No DXC comms still.

What were all your faults ? And what was your permanent solution

Hmmm....I have the egs signal line disturbed as well. Trans is in failsafe and my egs doesn't show up either. I replaced it as well. Still nothing. Did most the electrical troubleshooting you've done. I'm stumped on this issue.