Sunroof Help Needed
 

My panoramic sunroof is currently in the ventilation position- Both panels are popped open at the rear.

I just got the car back from new struts being installed, and found the rear sunroof panel not fully closed on the drivers side- the passenger side appeared seated.

I NEVER touch the sunroof; I hate the fragility and pain of repairs to these things in a 22 year old vehicle, but apparently someone else activated it. I got it to open to the vent position, but I really don't know how to operate the damn thing, and simply want to successfully close it without doing any damage, so I don't want to experiment.

Can anyone tell me what to do here? Thanks!

The process is described in the owner's manual. Also you should be able to use the manual crank if you want to take it easy and not worry about the motor stripping old plastics.


–awr–

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I did consult the manual- I found the description vague. I assume they are referring to the button in the center of the rocker switch to close the actual sunroof panels? My goal is to not mess around, and potentially make things worse.

Will the hand crank close the roof panels from the "popped at the rear only" vent position?

Thank you.

Sunroof Help Needed
 

I believe the same motor is used for vent and open mode just a matter of direction.

My recollection is push up on the front half of the button assembly for vent up or down but that push forward/close on the back half will also close when in vent mode.

–awr–

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Push the button center up to vent. I do it all the time. :wow:

And push again to close? I am waiting a few days until the weather warms up sufficiently so that I am assured there is no ice in the mechanism. Thanks

That's my recollection. My x5 is 850 miles away at the moment so i can't go test to compare.


–awr–

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Here ya go...

https://i.ibb.co/ZpK9QnqM/Sunroof01.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/xKmVk8Mx/Sunroof02.jpg

If the shop disconnected the battery during the repair that is likely the cause of the issue:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...55ab541e67.jpg


–awr–

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Push up once to vent. Push forward to close vent. Pull back one to slide the headliner back. Pull back to open the sunroof. Push forward once to close the roof. Push again once to close the headliner.

Once you get it figured out and closed, I suggest you pull the fuse...#58 20 amp if I remember correctly.

Absolutely!

The sunroof is stuck in the vent position- Both panels of the Pano roof are tilted up at the rear. Activating the roof switch causes the panels to struggle down a bit, but that is it. I tried the crank in the emergency close, which has a very high resistance to turning- I am reluctant to force it.

I learned that the shop that did the struts cycled the sunroof as part of their inspection. I am gobsmacked they would do this on a 22 year old BMW...

Hopefully there is a solution- this could be a deal breaker for me...

seal it and forget it
 

After my non-Pano sunroof's drains clogged, and I had to use the hex key to open it, I had the feeling it was going to break, so I lubed the machinery and gritted my teeth, and finally it opened.

Cleared all drains, cleaned and lubed the track & seals, and (with fingers crossed) operated the switch...it worked great. Then, I pulled fuse #58, and used clear paint protection film to seal it to the roof, and now I don't worry about it anymore.

Potential Solution...
 

I found this video on YouTube, posted several years ago which explains the problem I am having to a "T". Will try the shown solution tomorrow and report back. If successful, the fuse comes out immediately afterwards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXpDcy8C56Y

Out of curiosity, I vented mine. First, I slid the headliner back. Vent second. I pulled the switch button back. It closed the vents first. The pano went wide open. I drove around Austin with the roof open. One quick switch forward push closed it all.

With the vent open, blow compressed air into the rails. Lube it with a spray can straw. As long a part is not broken, it may come loose. Dirt is not our friend. I lubed the rails on my X5 last week.

Success!

I followed the method outlined in the You Tube link from my previous message. The rear most glass panel was stuck in the vent position. There are a pair of ramps right and left the slid forward to lift the panel, slide rearward to lower it. These ramps need to be pushed back to allow the panel to close- push is an understatement but with the proper application of force and the remaining steps outlined in the video, everything is closed and flush. Fuse out!

Whew! Wife's F10 roof window is acting up. I think it thinks it's always got a finger in the way to close. It won't vent mode and only moves open or close when holding the control vs a long press.


–awr–

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I think a sunroof is a fine thing during the warranty period....

With the help of this forum i don't write off using but it does get a little higher anxiety at times. Wife's roof window wouldn't close from the key fob yesterday. I had to go inside and hold the button continually.


–awr–

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I remember seeing in a youtube video someone made a plastic sunroof insert for e46/e39. Color coded plastic to seal the roof and remove the sunroof. I always thought that’s be cool to do for the x5. No concern of drains, no sunroof.

Initialized wife’s sunroof: back to normal.


–awr–

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Mine had a few leaks last night, out in the rain. I'll be running a bead of some kind of sealant around all the gaskets- If anyone has a suggestion for what might work well that would be great.

I hate doing this sort of thing, but I'll be driving this X5 until it is completely used up (It is actually still in very nice condition, but I've already had it 9 years, and nothing lasts forever).

Seal n peel. I’ve not used externally but if you used a thin enough layer I think it will not auto-peel but will come off cleanly should that be desired. I love the stuff for winter sealing of old house windows


–awr–

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As I stated in post #13 above, I permanently sealed mine using VViViD 3M clear Paint Protection Film. I used the 6" wide film (2 rolls equalling 120 inches length), which ended up just a bit short, but still worked.

As a backup, I bought 2 rolls of Xpel clear PPF, equalling 144 inches (better too long than too short), to be ready to replace it if it starts cracking or lifting, after 4.5 years of exposure to Texas Sun...but it is still good.

It's installed with about 3 inches of film on each side of the opening, and it stays in place without attention. I check it once a week.



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I wonder is crash wrap is clear enough. You could cover the whole thing in one piece.


–awr–

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Silicone and keeping the glass up there is probably fine, idk. This plastic E30 one was what I was thinking of. It'd be nice to have an aluminum one for the E53. Even some sort of plastic would be good. I just assume aluminum would be better in 105F direct sunlight through the years. Removing the whole tray from above the roof, etc. An E53 version would need to have a handful of screw mounts for where the headliner attaches, where the tray attaches to the actual roof - aside from whatever seal material would be used to perma-seal it to the roof. I guess it's more trouble than it's worth to do that stuff.

Hey Rider,

Have you checked your sunroof drain tubes under the A-pilar trim on both sides? I am in Boston area and just about every winter the freezing weather would cause the drain tube rubber to shrink/move and a kink would develop blocking the drain. When one or both drains are blocked water woudl drip through the upper center console.

I tried to secure the drain hose with zip ties, etc, and they woudl still kink.

Yes- that has been a regular maintenance task! The last time I added the zip ties, hoping it might extend the time between doing this. I'll do it one last time after I seal up the sunroof.

I think I'll try the 3M paint protection method and see how that goes- Sure looking forward to a consistantly dry interior!

I applied the 3M VViVid paint protection film today. The panoramic sunroof requires about 188 inches of film. I purchased a single 4"x 180" roll which proved to be sufficient in length- time will tell if the 4" is wide enough- the transition area where the gasket is may be a problem better accommodated by the the 6" width- time will tell.

I considered the Peel and Seal, but the gaskets around the sunroof were quite tight (although they let plenty of water in!) and I felt the sealant would just cover the surface of the joint.

The fuse (#58) has been pulled, and it will rain on Thursday so my fingers are crossed!

I appreciate the guidance!