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-   -   DIY Guide to Replacing Your Fuel Tank Breather Valve (Purge Valve). (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/55654-diy-guide-replacing-your-fuel-tank-breather-valve-purge-valve.html)

Sardonic 12-22-2008 02:11 AM

DIY Guide to Replacing Your Fuel Tank Breather Valve (Purge Valve).
 
My 2001 4.4i was throwing OBDII code P0443 (EVAP (Evaporative Emission System) purge/vent solenoid circuit condition).

I decided to replace the valve myself and save myself a few bucks. Hopefully this DIY guide will help a few people that run into this same issue in the future. I'll first post the instructions and then add some pics as well.

Simple DIY Instructions (a basic Guide) to Replace Your Purge Valve (AKA Fuel Tank Breather Valve)

OEM Part Number: 13 90 1 433 603
Time: Less than 30 minutes.

(Please pardon some of my generic automotive “lingo”…I’m no expert, but I am smart enough to save a few bucks.)

Step 1: Locate the valve; it’s located on the front right side of your engine block (driver’s side) in a vertical position. You’ll be looking at the top.

Step 2: Disconnect the power by sliding the silver “locking” wire forward. Pull straight up after unlocking the power line.

Step 3: Dislodge the whole valve from its physical location by carefully pulling up vertically and wiggling the valve a little back and forth. The valve is held in place by a rubber jacket (which surrounds the valve) that slides onto thin piece of metal. You’ll then have some “play” in the valve and be able to move it a round a little.

Please note the position of the rubber jacket as you’ll most likely have to place your new valve jacket in the same position

Step 4: Disconnect the rubber fuel hose on the side of the valve FIRST (there’s also another line on running from the bottom of the valve); it’s easy if you know how hose is locked onto the valve. For the purposes of the DIY guide, I’ll call it a “C” clamp. You’ll basically have to push down (really hard) on the “C” and pull straight back on the hose.

FYI, I had to push down pretty damn hard on the clamp in order to get that side hose lose.

Step 5: Disconnect the rubber fuel hose on the bottom of the valve SECOND; this one is pretty difficult to get to if you have big hands…not to mention my hose was on there as tight as it possibly could be. I maneuvered my left hand UNDERNEATH the valve and clamped down my grip where the hose meets the valve; make sure you keep your left hand locked in place. Next, I twisted the whole valve counterclockwise ALL WHILE pulling upwards on the valve at the same time. After enough revolutions and some force, the valve will finally dislodge.

Step 6: Get your new OEM replacement valve and very carefully put a VERY, VERY THIN layer of Vaseline where you’ll be sliding on the bottom hose/line...just on the TIP and do NOT get it inside of the entrance hole. Push the bottom hose onto your new valve. And as you probably know, you’ll basically be working through the instructions in reverse order from here on out.

Step 7: Connect your side hose SECOND by pushing down on the “C” clamp again and pushing the connections into place. You should hear a “click” once it is engaged.

Step 8: Slide the rubber jacket back onto the piece of metal that holds the valve into place.

Step 9: Connect the power line and click down the “locking” wire.

Step 10: Drive to your nearest O’Reilly Auto Parts store and “rent” out (it’s actually free) their OBDII Code reader and reset your P0443 code. Autozone can no longer legally reset codes though you might be able to get an employee to hook you up anyhow.

Your code will eventually clear itself from what I hear; I just didn’t want to wait.


Sardonic 12-22-2008 02:13 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Here are some pics to go along with my DIY guide...

blnk124 03-05-2009 11:42 PM

great diy. i'm about to do this job myself. this should make it a cakewalk.

SLOWBRA 03-06-2009 12:03 AM

Mine is throwing this code intermittently and will need to be replaced soon. Seems to only do it after driving on the highway for a while. Thanks for posting this write up.

blainesdad 05-08-2009 12:44 PM

my 2006 4.4 is throwing p0444 code, do you think this will be the repair that is necessary for it also?

SLOWBRA 05-08-2009 09:36 PM

My code was a P0443. I changed mine over a month ago. So far so good!

CaptainCalf 07-30-2009 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sardonic (Post 552992)
Step 5: Disconnect the rubber fuel hose on the bottom of the valve SECOND; this one is pretty difficult to get to if you have big hands…not to mention my hose was on there as tight as it possibly could be. I maneuvered my left hand UNDERNEATH the valve and clamped down my grip where the hose meets the valve; make sure you keep your left hand locked in place. Next, I twisted the whole valve counterclockwise ALL WHILE pulling upwards on the valve at the same time. After enough revolutions and some force, the valve will finally dislodge.

Sardonic, I've had to replace the oil separator valve on my 2005 3.0L X3 and I inadvertently pulled this hose free from it's connection under the intake manifold.

I've searched and searched for the correct place to reconnect it but haven't found it yet cuz it's a blind search under the manifold. I was wondering if you know where it connects? :dunno:

I found a diagram which seems to imply that it connects to the throttle body: RealOEM.com BMW E83 X3 3.0i FUEL TANK BREATHER VALVE

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Rick C.

CaptainCalf 07-30-2009 02:24 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's a pic of the underside of the intake manifold...I'll let you know if I can do it w/o removing the intake:thumbup:

CaptainCalf 07-30-2009 10:19 PM

Got it sorted. The FTV fitting was behind and to the right of the OSV, but that didn't turn out to be my problem. The reason my x3 wouldn't idle was due to the ICV not being fully seated...

lx4life 08-17-2009 08:52 PM

Great DIY just saved me over 200 bucks in parts and labor from a dealer or indy.


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