CCV(Crankcase/Oil Seperator Fixed!!! w/Pics!!!
 

FOR 3.0I ONLY.

This surgery is from my sister 2002 530i.. Same engine like 3.0i X5 with M54/M52.


The vibration was in cold weather and in the morning. I did how ever notice on warm days it was not as bad. I could be at a red light and with my foot on the brake it would shake pretty good. The idle was pretty consistant for the most part, say If was going from light to light about 3 blocks apart. Once I would get to the light, thr RPM hand would fall all the way down to zero and sit there. The motor would shake hard and the after a few seconds the hand would raise to about 300-500 RPM. There were times that the car would just die all together. One more thing, the leak at the CCV was so bad that after I found it and placed my finger over the vent port the motor ran fine then once I let go it died. All is will now though, the CEL light went off on its own after about 3-5 cycles of starting the motor. I hope this helps. Peace.- -





Well today I tackled the common CCV (Crankcase Vent/Oil separator) problem. My problem was a very loud intake leak sound and once I placed my finger over the side port on the CCV, the leak went away as best my finger could make it do. Also motor would shack back and forth, lighting in and outside the car would dance to the misfire that the CCV was causing among other things.
Here is the new unit.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2571/...3d139165_o.jpg
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Here is a view from the front of the car of the old unit .
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2641/...8798a8af_o.jpg
Just before I started this I asked myself could the CCV be replaced without taking the intake manifold off. The answer is YES It can be replaced with out taking the intak manifolid off.


On to surgery, first I started with removing the air box from the fender to the throttle body

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Once the tubing is removed you can see the 3 bolts that hold the CCV in place on the bracket .

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2618/...313cd3d9_o.jpg

As you can see
the three bolts are easy to get to. They are 10mm. After disconnecting a couple of pigtails and moving a few lines out of the way for clearance the CCV came out without much fuss .

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Once the old CCV was out, I took these picks to show them both

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/...35bf768f_o.jpg

the CCV on the left is the new one and the one on the right is the old one. After that it’s just a matter of doing the reverse and making sure you reconnect any lines or pigtails that were disconnected. This is a go time to check all hoses and cables while most of the big boxy items are out of the way. Also check the hose coming from the bottom of the CCV to the oil dipstick to tube. After a while the rubber becomes spongy from the heat build up and if you look inside you can see that the inside of the hose is starting to deteriorate. So it would be best to change it at this time. Here she is all buttoned up back to normal

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2690/...fbcef6a4_o.jpg

I was curious to see what the old looked like inside and out, so I took it apart and snapped some shots. I hope this helps anyone out there whom may have the problem I had with a bad CCV(Crankcase/Oil separator). I have more photos and info if anyone needs it. My car now runs and ideals MUCH, MUCH better. When I get to work tomorrow I will have the check engine light cleared and wait to see if it will come back on. I have yet to drive it since the work has been done. Going to fill her up before I go to bed just thought I would go ahead and right this up first. I still hear a very faint air sucking sound but it could just be me and my superman hearing when it comes to this car. I’ll get a second option from one of our techs tomorrow and see if I’m just hearing things. Just a side note, while the CCV was bad I did smell the fuems in the cabin from time to time and my OBC said my gas MPG were 20.9. I thought that was very strange, so I’m going to reset the MPG and the MPH gauges and see wha I get after a few tanks. Here are the pics of the old CCV in its nakedness enjoy.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2652/...7c7f0f1e_o.jpg
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If I missed anything let me know......:thumbup:

Mod... to move this to the DIY section .

Nice job Tom....

these pictures are from a 1996-1998 MY 528i. M52B28 motor

The version of the Crank Case Vent Valve is the original design. There is a updated design for the M54/M52TU. The correct parts to purchase are

11 61 7 534 237 Oil Separator Repair kit (cold weather climate version)
11 43 7 563 831 Dip Stick Guide Tube (double wall eliminated)
11 43 1 740 045 O-Ring
11 15 7 532 628 Hose
11 61 7 504 536 Return Pipe

be sure to change your oil and filter.


Addtional parts maybe needed if during the course of repairs such as a broken DISA Valve, and Torn Intake Boot

11 61 7 544 805 Adjuster Unit
13 54 1 440 102 Tube elbow
11 73 1 264 101 Support for Elbow

Awesome write-up, there was a guy I was trying to help who could have used this about a week ago ;)

FYI - There are plenty of write-ups for the 4.4-4.8 on www.e38.org for us V8 guys. I've cleaned and degreased my pre-VANOS intake manifold, so I'll be changing my OSV/CCV along w/ the intake gaskets (easier to do on the V8 w/ the intake off), valvecover gaskets and cooling system overhaul this Spring.

Nice diy.....

Can someone tell me what type of engine is the 3.0i? Vanos?

double vanos.

Thanks Killcrap.

Hi mrbmwX5,

Curious to know when the symptoms started to appear...was it when the temperature dipped below freezing? I'm encountering a rough idle, stuttering, and SES. I'm pretty sure it's the Oil Separator since it's been below 32-degrees for a couple weeks now. I haven't checked my engine to see if there are any oil leaks (which would indicate a blown valve gasket).

Are the part numbers the same for the 4.4i (N62) and the 3.0, or is it completely different? I searched Realoem, but couldn't find it for my X5. Thanks.

your crankcase vent valve is completely different than the 3.0.

your concern is most likely caused by wornout intermediate levers and the eccentric shaft. common problem on 2004-2006 MY 4.4 x5. most occurances occur at after 50K miles.