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-   -   Tight steering-Replace the double joint-photos (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/86979-tight-steering-replace-double-joint-photos.html)

nezarnuaimat 04-16-2012 02:54 PM

Tight steering-Replace the double joint-photos
 
Hi there,

After a thorough discussion with some nice members at this thread Tight Steering, thanks to SlickGT1 & petener999, I decided to replace the STEERING DOUBLE UNIVERSAL JOINT no. 2 here
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/y/f/110.png

The new part I installed is not really new; it's removed from a crushed X5.

The job itself is easy, however, removing other parts, hoses and pipes to allow access would increase the task time to up to three hours.

No specific material is required, only some grease to unable easier insertion of both hexagonal and astral rod ends of the universal joint. You'll need to refill the cooling fluid as one water hose should be removed.

NOTE: some E53 come with quadruple rod end, not hexagonal.

Here we go. This is the mechanic
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/1151/21615388.jpg

My last trial with this faulty joint was to put some grease. This made it tougher as in fact its internal X-link was severely corroded.
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4235/82497267.jpg

Removed
http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/9720/55088854.jpg

First end
http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/2548/53211502.jpg

Other end
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/4186/40864582.jpg

This rod is coming from the steering wheel
http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5724/60012957.jpg

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/2590/811nl.jpg

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1776/22996739.jpg

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3682/83283775.jpg

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/1533/81060541.jpg

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/3092/60667061.jpg

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/8837/19895686.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/6148/76284886.jpg

http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/9623/42857184.jpg

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/5765/41902755.jpg

Got my sweetie washed up :p:
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/5061/51146750.jpg

And here we go :thumbup:
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/8356/22656307.jpg

Thanks again pals; this is the best forum.

Nezar - Saudi Arabia

NOTE: my odometer reads 260,XXX Km!

SlickGT1 04-16-2012 03:07 PM

Cool stuff dude. So is it much better? Wow is your car all in dust. Holy crap. Is that normal for where you live? I have never seen that. I mean, I never wash my engine, but it looks new compared to yours. I can see how that knuckle would get owned.

How about you put some sort of boot over the knuckle? I can only see it messing up again.

petener999 04-16-2012 04:19 PM

Great job, buddy! Now, all you need is to wash your engine compartments to look like the rest of the body...

nezarnuaimat 04-16-2012 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlickGT1 (Post 874428)
Cool stuff dude. So is it much better? Wow is your car all in dust. Holy crap. Is that normal for where you live? I have never seen that. I mean, I never wash my engine, but it looks new compared to yours. I can see how that knuckle would get owned.

How about you put some sort of boot over the knuckle? I can only see it messing up again.

O yes SlickGT1, my steering wheel is much better now.

Sandstorm is a common show here in Saudi Arabia, this is one

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jj7hG9zyGW...orm-riyadh.jpg

I don't think it's practical to put a cover over the knuckle. Just think about filters ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by petener999 (Post 874444)
Great job, buddy! Now, all you need is to wash your engine compartments to look like the rest of the body...

I think I'll wash it up dear, but this won't help much! In less than a month dust would pile up again.

bakersx5 04-18-2012 08:07 PM

tight steering
 
nezarnuaimat, i am going to have to do mine soon. i have a 3.0i so there isnt near as much in the way. is it just a bolt on each end that holds it in place or do i have to take other parts of the shaft loose in order to get the joint section out? any advice is greatly appreciated.

nezarnuaimat 04-19-2012 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bakersx5 (Post 874733)
nezarnuaimat, i am going to have to do mine soon. i have a 3.0i so there isnt near as much in the way. is it just a bolt on each end that holds it in place or do i have to take other parts of the shaft loose in order to get the joint section out? any advice is greatly appreciated.

No, it's only a bolt on each side. Just remember to straighten the steering wheel (horizontal) to match with wheel's angle (0 degree). This requires that you park her from the beginning with front wheels having zero rotational angle. You'll need some grease on both shafts (the hexagonal and astral) to allow smoother insertion :D

Remember that some X5s have quadruple rod end, not hexagonal. Take the old part with you before you buy the new one.

Tell us what you've done, and remember to shot some pictures.

nezarnuaimat 04-29-2012 08:59 AM

Please tell me if there is any joint that still need to be greased.

MrFixIt 04-29-2013 11:35 PM

6 Attachment(s)
I just replaced the double joint on my X5 (2003 4.4 with duel heater water regulator. Not much room to work, but I took a short cut. Actual job took only 42 minutes, and I was going very slow.

OP, thank you for posting this DIY:thumbup:. Spent hours reading all the posts related to this problem, and more hours staring at the double joint on the X trying to figure out how to remove the lower torx bolt (#10) without having to remove all the hoses like the OP did.

I did not remove any water hoses (hrs of extra work avoided). Here is what I did:

1. (Safety) Waited until the X5 engine compartment was completely cold before starting any work.

2. Jacked the front of the X5 up slightly; put on jack stand (safety). This will allow you to manipulate the steering wheel easily and without putting too much torque on the double joint while the upper torx is removed. Also gave me a little more room to work from the bottom.

3. Dead centered the steering wheel to expose the upper torx bolt.

4. Removed the three 10mm bolts holding the heater regulator against the wall (see pic), and sort of pushed the entire hoses/unit out of the way enough to clear sufficient room to work the upper bolt on the double joint. Removed the upper torx bolt (used long extension). Kept the steering column attached after removing upper bolt.

5. From dead center, turned steering wheel (gently) 180 degrees left or right (BMW logo will be upside down). This will align the bottom torx bolt to the rear of the X5 where it will easily be accessible.

6. Approached the X5 from the front and under. You should be able to access the lower bolt with an extension and remove the bolt. I found it was easiest to position the ratchet extension above the sway bar--the angle of attack was almost perfect. Removed the bolt.

7. Went back up to work from the top. Removed the double joint. Pulled up on the steering column; it easily disengaged from the double joint.

8. Reached down and pulled up the lower part of the double to disengage it from the bottom splines. Took a slightly more force, but came off easily.

9. Gently maneuvered the double joint out.

10. Cleaned the contact points of the steering column and the lower part/spines. Applied a light coat of high temp grease.

11. Installed double joint. Did the lower first; aligned and gently pushed down. (do not force if jammed).

12. Aligned steering column and upper double joint--gently pulled down the column. It should fall in smoothly--did. Had to turn steering wheel slightly to properly align the slots.

13. Went back under the X and installed the torx bolt (must use new bolt). Torqued to spec (I torqued to "yep, that's good and tight"--hard to get a torque wrench in there).

14. Gently turned steering wheel back to dead center.

15. Installed the upper torx bolt (must use new bolt) and torqued to spec.

16. Tested steering wheel with a few turns--silky smooth and felt as new.

17. Removed jack stands and lowered the X.

18. Reinstalled the three 10mm bolts on the water heater regulator. Inspected all hoses/connections, put them all back in their places, and double checked all work. Done!

19. Road tested--WOW! It's new again. No more popping, cracking, clicking. Nice and tight and zero play.

The old double joint was so loose and clunky. The black rubber bushings were deteriorated.

nezarnuaimat 04-30-2013 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrFixIt (Post 934753)
I just replaced the double joint on my X5 (2003 4.4 with duel heater water regulator. Not much room to work, but I took a short cut.

Good job Mrfixit. I can see that you're expert in this so let me ask you this: When my car is cold in the morning my steering is very smooth and good, some minutes later it become tighter and tighter. Is this because I use aftermarket lubricant? Thanks

SlickGT1 04-30-2013 12:19 PM

MrFixIt, how many miles on your car. Just curious, I am approaching 85k, and mine is starting to click pop. Pissing me off. I don't have time to attack this yet, but I feel I will need to. Thanks.

DTMdan 04-30-2013 12:30 PM

My clunking actually feels/sounds like it's coming from a lower spot on the steering shaft. I also noticed there's less clunking when it rains (because of the moisture?).

bcredliner 04-30-2013 01:47 PM

Great posts!

neilrmp 04-30-2013 02:06 PM

Very informative, may have to do this in the future, thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ake53 04-30-2013 02:07 PM

Needed post. Same issue. Stiff steering and clicks sometimes.

electricalserv x5 04-30-2013 05:26 PM

Great DYI , nice paint on Your X5 and body kit.
I feel bad for your air filter with all that dust.....and the heat......OMG.......

electricalserv x5 04-30-2013 05:29 PM

question , after the repair, did You have to reset Your steering sensor?

MrFixIt 04-30-2013 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nezarnuaimat (Post 934770)
Good job Mrfixit. I can see that you're expert in this so let me ask you this: When my car is cold in the morning my steering is very smooth and good, some minutes later it become tighter and tighter. Is this because I use aftermarket lubricant? Thanks

Nezar: That is a very interesting occurrence. Are your referring to the aftermarket power steering fluid? Any quality ATF fluid should be OK. As far as tighter and tighter steering after starting, I'm not sure of the exact cause. It will requires some investigation.

Could be degraded/dirty ATF fluid; defective power steering pump; worn/loose serpentine belt; or others. You'll have to go through and check/eliminate the possible causes. You're in a harsh operating condition, dust/sand and extreme heat reek havoc on machines.

I would try changing out the ATF fluid first. It's cheap and easy to do.

MrFixIt 04-30-2013 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by electricalserv x5 (Post 934855)
question , after the repair, did You have to reset Your steering sensor?

I did not have to reset the steering sensor.

nezarnuaimat 05-01-2013 02:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrFixIt (Post 934903)
Nezar: I would try changing out the ATF fluid first. It's cheap and easy to do.

Thanks MrFixIt, I agree with you and I think I'll do this step first.

bcredliner 05-01-2013 02:38 PM

Nezar--what color is the fluid? Will you be DIY? Do you know that the replacement part is in good shape? Getting stiffer after running for some time could be getting a joint hot if they are not good and cause binding. No Clicking noise when you turn the wheel?

DT Man- FYI-there are many sources for a clunk that sounds like it is in the steering wheel. I would start by spraying WD40 on all the steering wheel Universal joints--see schematic in earlier post. How many miles on the current front suspension?

AKE 53--If you can make it click in park with engine running at different RPMs have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you put something metal or a stethoscope on the steering rack and to your ear. If the noise is louder than other metal steering parts close by that will tell you it is probably in the steering rack. If that is not the source try other steering parts though clicking is a common symtom of a steering rack problem. Either way click or no click test possible, I would then change the fluid especially if it hasn't been changed for a long time or is brown, should be red.

nezarnuaimat 05-02-2013 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcredliner (Post 934971)
Nezar--what color is the fluid? Will you be DIY? Do you know that the replacement part is in good shape? Getting stiffer after running for some time could be getting a joint hot if they are not good and cause binding. No Clicking noise when you turn the wheel?

Thanks bcredliner for your reply.
I used a non-bmw RED fluid. the replacement part was good and smooth, no backlash noticed. No clicking noise when I turn.

I'm gonna change the red fluid with a BMW-approved fluid as first step, then I'll let you know, thanks again.

taosx5 07-09-2013 10:14 PM

Hey all, great job with pics and detailed explanation. I have owned the wife's X5 (4.4) since new in 03. I also have an 03 4.6is. Her steering has always been stiffer. Been changing fluid for awhile so it has always been clean never the burnt brown so many people describe.

But lately her steering has been making kind of a squeak when turning to right and she just now started complaining that it is getting stiff. I told her she should go back to the gym cuz she is getting weak. But I too noticed it getting pretty stiff at slow speed, mostly parking.

I always suspected the power steering pump but you all have me convinced I should replace this double joint. I think I will get it ordered and set aside some time in the next few weeks to get her done. This forum rocks as do people like Mr. Fix it and Nezar. Thanks. Sure appreciate your time and knowledge.

Anyone have a good idea on where to buy it? Price? Thanks in advance for suggestions.

taosx5 10-13-2013 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrFixIt (Post 934753)
I just replaced the double joint on my X5 (2003 4.4 with duel heater water regulator. Not much room to work, but I took a short cut. Actual job took only 42 minutes, and I was going very slow.

OP, thank you for posting this DIY:thumbup:. Spent hours reading all the posts related to this problem, and more hours staring at the double joint on the X trying to figure out how to remove the lower torx bolt (#10) without having to remove all the hoses like the OP did.

I did not remove any water hoses (hrs of extra work avoided). Here is what I did:

1. (Safety) Waited until the X5 engine compartment was completely cold before starting any work.

2. Jacked the front of the X5 up slightly; put on jack stand (safety). This will allow you to manipulate the steering wheel easily and without putting too much torque on the double joint while the upper torx is removed. Also gave me a little more room to work from the bottom.

3. Dead centered the steering wheel to expose the upper torx bolt.

4. Removed the three 10mm bolts holding the heater regulator against the wall (see pic), and sort of pushed the entire hoses/unit out of the way enough to clear sufficient room to work the upper bolt on the double joint. Removed the upper torx bolt (used long extension). Kept the steering column attached after removing upper bolt.

5. From dead center, turned steering wheel (gently) 180 degrees left or right (BMW logo will be upside down). This will align the bottom torx bolt to the rear of the X5 where it will easily be accessible.

6. Approached the X5 from the front and under. You should be able to access the lower bolt with an extension and remove the bolt. I found it was easiest to position the ratchet extension above the sway bar--the angle of attack was almost perfect. Removed the bolt.

7. Went back up to work from the top. Removed the double joint. Pulled up on the steering column; it easily disengaged from the double joint.

8. Reached down and pulled up the lower part of the double to disengage it from the bottom splines. Took a slightly more force, but came off easily.

9. Gently maneuvered the double joint out.

10. Cleaned the contact points of the steering column and the lower part/spines. Applied a light coat of high temp grease.

11. Installed double joint. Did the lower first; aligned and gently pushed down. (do not force if jammed).

12. Aligned steering column and upper double joint--gently pulled down the column. It should fall in smoothly--did. Had to turn steering wheel slightly to properly align the slots.

13. Went back under the X and installed the torx bolt (must use new bolt). Torqued to spec (I torqued to "yep, that's good and tight"--hard to get a torque wrench in there).

14. Gently turned steering wheel back to dead center.

15. Installed the upper torx bolt (must use new bolt) and torqued to spec.

16. Tested steering wheel with a few turns--silky smooth and felt as new.

17. Removed jack stands and lowered the X.

18. Reinstalled the three 10mm bolts on the water heater regulator. Inspected all hoses/connections, put them all back in their places, and double checked all work. Done!

19. Road tested--WOW! It's new again. No more popping, cracking, clicking. Nice and tight and zero play.

The old double joint was so loose and clunky. The black rubber bushings were deteriorated.

Mr.Fixit and everyone else. Great write up. Thanks a million.

I ordered the steering joint a couple of months ago but hesitated to installing it. Just finished and all in all it took me about 1.5 hours. I tell you with my fat short fingers I had a heck of a time taking off the heater regulator and putting it back on. I spent at least a half hour trying to find one of the bolts after dropping it three or four times. Installing the steering joint only took about 20 minutes. I dropped a universal socket joint into the aluminum pan so had to fish that out as well. Seems to work great. Just a heads up for those attempting this repair. I did not have the torx sockets so the one on the steering knuckle is an E-10. All your help and knowledge are much appreciated.

gaberd0929 12-25-2013 08:37 PM

2001 X5 4.4i stiff steering fixed
 
I was going to replace the double joint, but I decided to spray it first with the Liquid Wrench/White lithium grease ($6.00) to see what happens. Guess what... it worked! Stiffness is gone. Although I still could hear a faint ticking noise, but the steering feels that it's back to normal. I don't know when it'll last, but it beats spending $$$ at this point.

bcredliner 12-26-2013 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gaberd0929 (Post 971472)
I was going to replace the double joint, but I decided to spray it first with the Liquid Wrench/White lithium grease ($6.00) to see what happens. Guess what- it worked! Stiffness is gone. Although I still could hear a faint ticking noise, but the steering feels that it's back to normal. I don't know when it'll last, but it beats spending $$$ at this point.

Feels so good when the repair is that simple!

electricalserv x5 12-26-2013 04:26 PM

Nice X5 [color and body look great],WOW that is a lot of dust there...................4.4i e53 ,I assume 03'.
how often do You replace the air filter.
How often do You use injector cleaner?

LVP 09-21-2014 06:17 PM

Have a slight click in the steering on right turns. Inspected the knuckle and I can feel it clicking, so it has to get done. Steering isn't stiff yet, so I'm not in crisis mode. I did this job on my E36 - that was crisis mode. It would stiffen up in turns on the track - not good.

For this though, if you look at realoem, you can see it calls for a "cup". It looks like a dust boot or heat shield, although mine currently doesn't have this. Do any of you with 4.4's have this cup installed? Post pics if you do please.

RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.4i STEER.COL.-LOWER JOINT ASSY

Thanks!

utsc 12-11-2015 04:22 PM

My 2002 X5 3.0i (FA53 06/2002) a tight Steering and I need to replace Lower Shaft Universal Double Joint.

BMW Dealer is selling for $230 and FCP Euro has it for $200. Any other sites that I can buy it cheaper?

Part #: BMW-32306758076
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

Santib 12-11-2015 04:24 PM

Its 185.00 at ECS Tuning.

utsc 12-11-2015 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Santib (Post 1061450)
Its 185.00 at ECS Tuning.

Thank you. The dealer is selling for $230 so I was hoping to finder bit cheaper. Unfortunately this appears to be a un-common item and is not sold be the major auto parts sites such as advance auto.

LVP 12-11-2015 04:48 PM

It's on original BMW part and you can't get aftermarket. Just shop around and see who has the best price. You could try getbmwparts.com as well. I've had good luck with those guys on the turbos for my 535i.

utsc 12-11-2015 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LVP (Post 1061455)
It's on original BMW part and you can't get aftermarket. Just shop around and see who has the best price. You could try getbmwparts.com as well. I've had good luck with those guys on the turbos for my 535i.

Thank you. GetBMWParts is selling for $185 after a 20% discount.

BMW Dealers online are offering a 10% discount and selling for $207.

Hence my question is if GetBMW parts is selling same part from BMW USA

Double joint. STEER.COL.-LOWER JOINT ASSEMBLY made by BMW. #32306758076

BMW X5 (1999-2007). #32306758076: Double joint

LVP 12-11-2015 05:56 PM

Genuine BMW is what they sell. You can email them and they are pretty quick to respond. Actually they only respond electronically. But as soon as you place the order it is processed, so make sure it's right. It was really quick getting my turbos. No issues with the guys at all.

utsc 12-12-2015 08:18 PM

ECStuning.com reliable and sell genuine BMW parts? They are offering free shipping

bcredliner 12-12-2015 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by utsc (Post 1061565)
ECStuning.com reliable and sell genuine BMW parts? They are offering free shipping

Good source!

utsc 12-14-2015 10:46 AM

Thank you everyone. I will be ordering from ECS Tunning as they are selling it for the same price as others & also offering FREE shipping.

jdstrickland 12-14-2015 01:17 PM

I'm curious what the comparison is to arrive at tight steering. If the X5 is tight compared to some other brand, then the comparison is invalid. If the comparison is to another X5, then there can be stuff to fix.

My X has steering that is dramatically tighter than the Mazda MPV it replaced, but I paid extra for the tight steering. Without knowing what "tight" means, and whether it is in relation to other BMWs or other makes, there is no right answer to the question.

Maruzo 07-17-2018 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nezarnuaimat (Post 874425)
Hi there,

After a thorough discussion with some nice members at this thread Tight Steering, thanks to SlickGT1 & petener999, I decided to replace the STEERING DOUBLE UNIVERSAL JOINT no. 2 here
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/y/f/110.png

The new part I installed is not really new; it's removed from a crushed X5.

The job itself is easy, however, removing other parts, hoses and pipes to allow access would increase the task time to up to three hours.

No specific material is required, only some grease to unable easier insertion of both hexagonal and astral rod ends of the universal joint. You'll need to refill the cooling fluid as one water hose should be removed.

NOTE: some E53 come with quadruple rod end, not hexagonal.

Here we go. This is the mechanic
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/1151/21615388.jpg

My last trial with this faulty joint was to put some grease. This made it tougher as in fact its internal X-link was severely corroded.
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4235/82497267.jpg

Removed
http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/9720/55088854.jpg

First end
http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/2548/53211502.jpg

Other end
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/4186/40864582.jpg

This rod is coming from the steering wheel
http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5724/60012957.jpg

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/2590/811nl.jpg

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1776/22996739.jpg

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3682/83283775.jpg

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/1533/81060541.jpg

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/3092/60667061.jpg

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/8837/19895686.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/6148/76284886.jpg

http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/9623/42857184.jpg

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/5765/41902755.jpg

Got my sweetie washed up :p:
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/5061/51146750.jpg

And here we go :thumbup:
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/8356/22656307.jpg

Thanks again pals; this is the best forum.

Nezar - Saudi Arabia

NOTE: my odometer reads 260,XXX Km!

Hi Nezar,

Ur photos have disappeared. Can u kindly repost the pictures?

Thanks!

Maruzo 11-30-2020 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrFixIt (Post 934753)
I just replaced the double joint on my X5 (2003 4.4 with duel heater water regulator. Not much room to work, but I took a short cut. Actual job took only 42 minutes, and I was going very slow.

OP, thank you for posting this DIY:thumbup:. Spent hours reading all the posts related to this problem, and more hours staring at the double joint on the X trying to figure out how to remove the lower torx bolt (#10) without having to remove all the hoses like the OP did.

I did not remove any water hoses (hrs of extra work avoided). Here is what I did:

1. (Safety) Waited until the X5 engine compartment was completely cold before starting any work.

2. Jacked the front of the X5 up slightly; put on jack stand (safety). This will allow you to manipulate the steering wheel easily and without putting too much torque on the double joint while the upper torx is removed. Also gave me a little more room to work from the bottom.

3. Dead centered the steering wheel to expose the upper torx bolt.

4. Removed the three 10mm bolts holding the heater regulator against the wall (see pic), and sort of pushed the entire hoses/unit out of the way enough to clear sufficient room to work the upper bolt on the double joint. Removed the upper torx bolt (used long extension). Kept the steering column attached after removing upper bolt.

5. From dead center, turned steering wheel (gently) 180 degrees left or right (BMW logo will be upside down). This will align the bottom torx bolt to the rear of the X5 where it will easily be accessible.

6. Approached the X5 from the front and under. You should be able to access the lower bolt with an extension and remove the bolt. I found it was easiest to position the ratchet extension above the sway bar--the angle of attack was almost perfect. Removed the bolt.

7. Went back up to work from the top. Removed the double joint. Pulled up on the steering column; it easily disengaged from the double joint.

8. Reached down and pulled up the lower part of the double to disengage it from the bottom splines. Took a slightly more force, but came off easily.

9. Gently maneuvered the double joint out.

10. Cleaned the contact points of the steering column and the lower part/spines. Applied a light coat of high temp grease.

11. Installed double joint. Did the lower first; aligned and gently pushed down. (do not force if jammed).

12. Aligned steering column and upper double joint--gently pulled down the column. It should fall in smoothly--did. Had to turn steering wheel slightly to properly align the slots.

13. Went back under the X and installed the torx bolt (must use new bolt). Torqued to spec (I torqued to "yep, that's good and tight"--hard to get a torque wrench in there).

14. Gently turned steering wheel back to dead center.

15. Installed the upper torx bolt (must use new bolt) and torqued to spec.

16. Tested steering wheel with a few turns--silky smooth and felt as new.

17. Removed jack stands and lowered the X.

18. Reinstalled the three 10mm bolts on the water heater regulator. Inspected all hoses/connections, put them all back in their places, and double checked all work. Done!

19. Road tested--WOW! It's new again. No more popping, cracking, clicking. Nice and tight and zero play.

The old double joint was so loose and clunky. The black rubber bushings were deteriorated.

Hi MrFixIt. Do you have the part number for the steering u-joint on a 2003 X5 4.6is?

wpoll 11-30-2020 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maruzo (Post 1195460)
Hi MrFixIt. Do you have the part number for the steering u-joint on a 2003 X5 4.6is?

In case MrFixIt isn't here still, the part number is BMW # 32306758076 - from here on RealOEM...

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_1188

Maruzo 11-30-2020 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1195462)
In case MrFixIt isn't here still, the part number is BMW # 32306758076 - from here on RealOEM...

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_1188

Awesome. Much obliged wpoll! :thumbup:


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