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Old 10-13-2014, 02:50 PM
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bcredliner bcredliner is offline
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Assuming the problem happened all at once, not over a period of time.

When you have a problem like you have, because there are many possible causes the best course of action is to troubleshoot until you have discovered the core cause. Codes are some indication but not always conclusive. If you didn't clear the codes first they may be old. Best approach is clear the codes and see what returns. IMO you have more and simple troubleshooting to do before replacing parts.

Since an engine needs spark, air and fuel to run, start there. As per other posts the problem is not likely spark because the code indicates all cylinders are impacted. It is not likely air filter since it came on so quickly. Per upallnight, you need to know if it is getting fuel. Auto parts stores often have a fuel pressure tester that you can use free of charge.

The first thing I would do is eliminate the MAF as the cause. I'm not sure you have. I suggest you test the MAF again by removing the connector and seeing if the idle is smoother. If it does not it is time to look elsewhere. The engine will not rev properly with the MAF disconnected. The test is only at an idle. Did you use MAF cleaner? Did you spray the wires that are partially hidden?

Vacuum leaks were also mentioned. Sometimes you can find a vacuum leak by spraying carb or brake cleaner where there could be a vacuum leak. It a vacuum leak is sprayed the idle will increase for a short period of time. The best way to determine is there a vacuum leak is to have a smoke test done. One of the more common sources of a vacuum leak is the air intake tube. A visual inspection should work if that is the case.

You mentioned a knocking sound. That could be coming from the DISA valve or the throttle body but because you were trying to rev the engine I suspect it was spark knock. How would you describe it, fast, slow, steady pace, loud, constant, only when you tried to accelerate?
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Last edited by bcredliner; 10-13-2014 at 03:09 PM.
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