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Old 11-19-2014, 11:37 AM
garrett.fell garrett.fell is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lombard, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
Thanks for the updates Garrett, you're doing great! I'm due to do these parts next year, my miles are low but my right rear is already out of spec with camber and at the age of the parts anything with rubber bushings or ball joints is going to be worn.

Interesting on the integral link, I'm wondering if letting the air out of the spring would give more wiggle room to play

Air suspension has been drained! (Which is a piece of cake btw)

Maybe someone else with more experience with this repair can chime-in but my experience here what I found

If you install the integral link first - it's difficult to slip the suspension arm past the balljoint to line it up. It'll end up hitting the rubber boot and that's not good. The ball joint needs to pivot slightly to allow the arm to pass over it. Maybe if I had a lift it'd be easier? I am working in contorted positions on the floor

The other side of the ball-joint has a little raised collar portion that fits into the end of the integral link. Once the suspension arm is aligned with the balljoint - the balljoint can't pivot anymore which causes issues with getting that collar to fit in the IL squarely The IL needs to swing (arc) into its final place. I found its about 1mm or less too much interference.

The solution was to start the alignment process on the ball-joint suspension arm-side, but just slightly so the balljoint can still pivot. Don't align the holes. Then start the integral link side - then you can coax the mess together with a plastic mallet. I know I fiddled with this for more than an hour last night before figuring that out

It's a little hard to explain without pictures.






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Garrett Fell
2014 Honda Pilot - The *new* wife mobile
2005 BMW X5 - 4.4i - It's mine now!
2003 Honda CRV - My train car
1959 VW Beetle - My toy (13.18 @ 100.86 in the 1/4)
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