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SMOKEY53 · #**228** 12-15-2014, 06:55 PM

Hey guys,

just got through my install and wanted to put some cliff notes down for those taking this on. I did the install over two separate days. 1 day for the reverse camera. 1 day for everything else. I probably went overboard in my attention to detail, zip tied everything, close to 100% invisible install - but if you were just throwing it in you could get it done in a day.

Tips:

- remove your interior first. Passenger seat, glovebox, trans tunnel trims, rear seat, kick panel, B-pillar trim etc. Removing the glovebox proved crucial for getting access to the rear of the head unit to get all the wires tucked down so the headunit would seat fully. Removing the seat will give you so much more room to move around in the car, and save your lower back from having to sit in the seat and lean forward. Note, you will set off your SRS when disconnecting the seat, so either disconnect your battery first, or plan to clear the code after.

- if you have the Business CD, you MUST remove all the plastic bracket area that they suggest to cut out. It needs to be flush in order for the metal bracket/basket combo to fit in. You won't get the head unit in if it's not 100% square.

- Be careful with running your mic and GPS if you plan to place it in the head liner console. There is only just enough wiring to run the distance. I ran from the overheard console, across passenger side roof lining, down A-piller, under kick panel and along the back of the glovebox. It was tight.

- when placing the mic in the upper console and point at the drive, there are two T10 torx screws underneath the courtesy/map lights that allow you to drop the plastic housing down and poke the mic out the side and point it at the driver. Saves cutting any plastics. I didn't cut/drill/trim any plastic in this install (other than the bracket).

- Put some duct tape down under the lower edge of the headunit, on the textured plastic dash. It will save you putting a bunch of scratches on your dash when you're trying to manoeuvre the head unit into place. Also suggest putting some blue painters tape on the screen itself as some extra protection. The last time I did a head unit install, I put an inch long scratch into my brand new Pioneer screen with a screwdriver accidentally. You can only imagine the rage......

- Don't use the 'license plate light' replacement reverse camera. It doesn't fit, and to make it fit is a compromise. I did do irreversible damage to the bulb holder to get enough clearance to get the camera in that space, I regret that as it is now permanent. I would suggest getting a small butterfly camera with mini connection instead of the big ass RCA style ones which are a nightmare to feed through the tailgate to body grommet.

- For Australians, I bought the DVB-T box (digital tv tuner). I have only done a short test with it, but have only been able to get one channel and I live in the city, so signal should be strong. Suggest this is a waste of money unless you're prepared to mount an external body antenna.

All in all, the part that took the longest was the reverse camera, cutting the bracket, and getting the wiring up to the headliner. If you were happy to have no camera, you already had the OEM large screen and didn't have to trim the bracket, and were happy to put the GPS in the dash and use the inbuilt mic - you would avoid all this.

I also ran full 5ch RCA's and amp trigger wire to the rear of the car. I don't know if I will ever put an amp in and upgrade the speakers (which improved slightly with the Dynavin but are still rubbish), but I had a set in the garage and figured it made sense to run them anyway rather than go through this ordeal twice.

Overall, it's a great improvement. Spotify works great with A2DP. It picked up all my contacts from my iPhone 5 straight away. I'm sure once I spend some quality time with it I will have more feedback.

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