Finally got around to doing this. Thank you, BMW, for making a simple thermostat a 4 hour job :|

Anyway, the process wasn't overly complex. I tried harder to find a large coolant line than I needed to, so that was wasted time. Then I found I took more of the intake off than was necessary, which also wasted time.

Note to those thinking about it. Those two flange bolts for the EGT cooler really are as tricky as you have read. Be careful and good luck. Also, the transmission cooling thermostat is SO easy to replace once you're in there, so cough up the extra $80 for that part and just do it to be safe. Once the fan is out, 3 10mm bolts and a clipped in line is all you have to replace.