don't have the diy link but did do the job and would offer a few things about doing it. some experience changing trans fluid, read a few posts here, not in a hurry, some simple techniques and some balls to do the job..it is worth it, the fluid in mine at 40,000 was very dark, the magnets were coated, the pan had the same clutch particles. no metal, it does shift smoother, especially under load going up hill in automatic mode.
1. secure the car, I used four ramps and drove up so the vehicle was level and secure.
2. let the car cool, the trans housing is aluminum, the bolts steel- easier on the threads, the cats and exhaust are right there by the pan.
3. make sure the fill plug will loosen before you drop the pan, mine was a large recessed plug at the rear of the bottom of the pan. 6H26 for the 4.8is. the drain plug is real close towards the front and flush with the pan.
4. drain the fluid- four to five liters.
5. gently separate the pan from the transmission.
6. keep your catch fluid pan because when you remove the pan, fluid will still drop...I used a pan larger than the trans pan to cover any drips.
7. The trans filter is held in place by the tube washer and is a pop in, pull out thing.held in by the tube seal, 1" in diameter. , if it doesn't come out with the filter, go in and get it..you can see up the pipe..
8. if your mechatronic seal is leaking-weeping on the passenger side of the trans, now is the time to change, otherwise I would leave it, it is a fussy replacement. relatively easy pull down on the white tab releasing it located on bottom near filter, pull off connector, make sure you note orientation of tang...very important to get this right, new one goes in reverse..must be aligned. when pulling seal/tube out...put Vaseline on the seals of the new one,,otherwise it is a bitch going back in...once in, push up on the white locking tab. replace connector. white locking tab will not go back into place when pushing up if the seal is not fully inserted...I needed Vaseline after nearly hitting it with a hammer..ha
9. clean pan, magnets..return magnets, easy to forget to put back on pan.
10. put in filter,
11. replace pan, alternate tightening the numerous bolts. take time..align all bolts to pan to gasket..might have to push pan around a bit, get a few spread apart bolts in first to ease the others.only hand turn a few turns until all bolts are in place. tighten bolts in cross pattern, going around one last loop to make sure all are tight.
12. the fill plug is funky, it is shaped like a an open ended T...see it close when you have the pan out so you know what you are dealing with on the re-fill. I got a plastic 90 degree plastic elbow the size of the pump tube and mounted it on the pump tube and it worked like a charm. I used one of those $5 pumps that screws onto a liter/quart bottle but it takes a lot of time changing bottles on the re-fill. so I got a bucket and put about 5-6 liters in and had it ready and positioned.
13. pump fluid until it comes out, the fill hole, have to put something there to catch it otherwise it gets all over.. return fill plug only slightly,
14. start vehicle, remove fill plug and fill until it comes out..replace fill plug. Tighten ..it can be done relatively quickly via the hand pump and the fluid in the bucket. what ever is left in the bucket goes back in the bottle at $25 a bottle or ?...next time. I felt that if I got enough fluid in, when it started to come out the fill hole, while the engine was started cold, I would get the right amount of fluid and didn't need to temperature test it for the proper amount. pumped like mad to get it full asap. heats up fast and hot fluid expands. For me, the key to this job was the ramps, vehicle cold, the bucket, the pump, the elbow, a large pan, keep the bolts together, satisfaction ...