Hi Pup,
What timing, my beast in half on the work bench as I type. I started this a few days ago and have not had a lot of time to complete. I would note doing the seals between the front diff and the engine sump since you will be unbolting the diff. These consist of a rubber o ring and a rubber seal that are just sitting on the edge of diff (no need to press fit).
Part 8 & 9 on this diagram between diff and engine and Part 8 between engine and diff support on other side.
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
Would also plan on replacing your diff fluid (most stays in but will need topping off), giumbo flex disk (between diff and drive line), power steering fluid, engine oil (sorry if obvious). Other parts that come off which can be checked possibly replaced: belts, belt tensioner, belt deflection pulley, upper cooling pipe. Other parts easy to get at while in there; water pump, AC belt, ac belt tensioner.
Noted found a comment by someone on this pelican which referenced this job on a 4.4 on pelican forum which I will post below. His comments note removing engine mount which I did not have to do on my 2005 4.8is.
Overall the job is long but nothing too hard, the axle removal and diff unbolt scare you or run up the bill. Lots of good posts on here for axle shaft removal such as:
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...placement.html
Here is the posting I found for this job on 4.4
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BMW - The Infamous Alternator Bracket Oil Leak on the E65 BMW 7-Series - Pelican Parts Technical Article
see the comment by Jerspeed of;
Comments: Just did the alternator bracket seal on my 2005 x5 4.4l. Just a few tips I want to share with everyone. Other than taking off the Mass Airflow/ Air Filter housing, the auxilary fan and cowl, the water pump, the alternator, and moving the power steering pump to the side, the biggest challenge is getting to two bolts. The lower right 16mm bolt on the alternator bracket and the 16mm upper right bolt on the front differential. In order to remove the lower right alternator bracket bolt -several things I have found that makes it easier is the following: 1: Remove the cv axels from both sides. 2. Unbolt the central nut on the driver side motor mount. 3 unbolt pry loose and move the front differential to the side - the engine cradle keeps the differential in place. in order to do this you need to use an engine lift connected to the front driver side engine lift eyelet near the upper left side of the driver side valve cover and lift about 20mm doing this allows you access to the lower left bolt on the differential. The differential 16mm upper right bolt can be loosed with a boxed offset wrench available at harbor freight $15. 4. removal of the oil Thermostat and cooler lines from the alternator bracket held on by two 5.5mm hex bolts - use a hex key. When removing the Alternator bracket be careful: 3- 13mm bolts 2 on side, 1 on the face of the bracket 1- female t45 torx bolt, 3-16mm bolts, 1 small obscure bolt on the side use a 1/4 12pt shown on upper left side of picture socket. Once all the bolts are loose the bracket should fall right out
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best of luck
J