Hi,

I had the transmission light come on and had some other codes which indicated a bad MAF, so I replaced it. That made the transmission light go away, and it has not come back since, but I now have other lights...

I now have the EML and trifecta lights (DSC, ABS & Brake lights). The EML causes the vehicle to limp along, it has absolutely no power when that sucker comes on.

Also, the car stalls randomly sometimes. It mostly does it when making a tight slow turn, but it has also stalled while not turning. Needless to say, I am not driving this thing around for pleasure! lol Just for troubleshooting...

The speed sensors were replaced on all wheels recently because I saw those lights come on once before, so I am pretty sure it is not the sensors.

I have two code readers: the bavauto code reader and the OBDLink LX with Torque Android software.

The bavauto reader gives me the following codes from page 19:

1. E4 - O2 Sensor Adaptation Limit, Cyl #4 to #6
2. E3 - O2 Sensor Adaptation Limit, Cyl #1 to #3
3. F2 - Mysfire Cyl #5
4. CA - 02 Sensor Control Limit, Cyl #1 to #3
5. D3 - Idle Control Valve Mechanically Stuck
6. Cb - O2 Sensor Control Limit, Cyl #4 to #6

The OBDLink reader gives me the following codes:

1. p1084 - Fuel Control Mixture Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1
2. p1085 - Fuel Control Mixture Lean Bank 2 Sensor 1
3. p1500 - Idle Speed Control Valve Stuck Open
4. p0172 - Mixture Control System Too Rich Bank 1
5. p0175 - Mixture Control 2 System Too Rich Bank 2

I also used the built-in test functions in the cluster for the battery/alternator. When the car is off, the cluster reads the battery at 12.2 Volts. When I turn on the engine and vehicle is not moving, the cluster reports the voltage at 13.7-13.8 volts (headlights and A/C off). If I turn on the A/C and headlights (Xenon) with vehicle not moving, the cluster reports the voltage at 13.5-13.6, and I did notice a drop in RPMs as I turned on the A/C, it felt almost as if the car was going to stall though it did not actually stall. The battery is 4-5 years old. The last two lasted about this long, but those just died completely, this one seems to still be alright, at least that's what the tech at the "Batteries+" shop said two days ago.

The alternator was replaced about 2 years ago, but I'd like to rule it out somehow. Do the above rule it out? or do the above confirm it is not doing well? I have heard the voltage reported by the cluster test functions while the engine is running should be around 14.2 volts or so...

Where should I start? I do not want to continue throwing parts at this too blindly anymore...

The EML is kind of a new symptom. It just started showing up lately. The trifecta has been showing up off and on for some time.

Also, I get the above codes with either reader even when the EML is not lit up. Is there no code that is thrown when the EML is lit up? Or do I need some other tool to get to the EML diagnostic code? I have heard of GT1 but I don't know anyone that has access to it.

I was planning on starting with taking out the DISA valve and checking it (though I must say I have no clue if it could cause any of these issues). I know I replaced it once many years ago so it could be bad by now... I do not remember ever replacing/cleaning the ICV...