Have had an increasingly bad oil leak from the upper oil pan gasket. It's a big job but decided to tackle it this long weekend. Will post more info as I go. The initial steps I will just list out as they are common to lots of jobs.

Decided to replace the front wheel bearings while I have the knuckles off, but that will happen at the end. Waffling on whether I should replace the oil pump while it is all apart. My X is about to cross 15 years and 150k...

Parts List: (For a 03/2001 X5 4.4i with M62TU engine) (updated 11/28/2015)
upper gasket 11137500260
lower gasket 11137500261
oil separator tube banjo sealing rings (2) 13821432344
oil filter tube banjo sealing rings (2) 07119963200
drive shaft seals (2) 33107505601
diff o-ring seals (2) 31511213527
dipstick tube o-ring 11431707164
dipstick tube metal ring 11437838127 (mine was missing, might have been part of my leak)
level sensor seal 12611744292
oil pump (optional) 11411439260 (the oil pump includes oring where large pipe attaches to pump)
If replacing oil pump, also get the 6mm oring for the small pipe on the oil pump 11421713597
and the 18.0 x 2.5 mm o-ring - 11421741129 - for far end of the large diameter oil pipe from the oil pump (and yes, I know this is not the way it is shown in realoem.com).
1L front diff oil (SAF-XO) 07512293972
half shaft lock ring (2) 33131214961 (included if you buy dealer drive shaft seals)
half shaft nut (2) 33411133785
different plug sealing ring (2) 07119963355
oil filter 11427510717
oil (your favorite)
oil pickup sealing o-ring 11421435020

First session (3.5 hours)
1. Put rear wheels up on race ramps and the front on ReverseLogic jack stands with the BMW specific pivoting blocks. Seems very stable and lots of room to work.
2. Disconnected negative battery cable, propped trunk open to prevent it latching later.
3. Removed front wheels, plastic splash shield and aluminum belly pan
3.5. Drained engine oil and front diff oil (don't forget to open oil filter canister so that oil drains out now and not while you are working) :-(
4. Removed fan and fan shroud, intake tube with mass flow meter to throttle body, and air cleaner box
5. Removed engine acoustic cover, cabin air filter box (at rear of engine).
6. Positioned engine support (Harbor Freight 96524) and just snugged it up. This tool is about 1" too narrow for the X5, but it works.
7. Removed nuts from L & R engine mounts
8. Set a mark with my laser level and lifted engine slightly (~10mm) using the engine support frame to get weight off subframe
9. Removed L & R axle nuts
10. Disconnected tie rods at the sub frame (its a bolt, not a tapered joint). Popped steering rack ball joints loose from knuckle using Harbor Freight tool 99849 (their HD forged ball joint tool)
11. Disconnected L&R wheel sensors and brake wear sensor.
12. Unbolted L&R calipers from knuckle and zip-tied out of the way to protect the hoses.
13. Removed rotors.
14. Removed two big bolts holding knuckle to bottom of strut. Somehow held it up while giving the axle a few taps and it was free. Set knuckle aside for bearing replacement later.
15. Using two beefy screwdrivers, popped L&R axles out of diff. Boots look good (yay!). Set aside.
16. break time. made this list :-)

__________________
David.X5
2001 X5 4.4i Sport
SOLD! at 160k miles