Update 2. 6 more hours (1 hour of that was probably my fault).

Oil pan is out.

Looks like 16-18 hours of shop time for the total job is about right after getting all the way into this. Whew.

Next steps are to remove all the items bolted to the oil pan, disconnect steering rack, loosen lots of oil pan screws, lower subframe, then remove pan...

16.5. Remove right side axle support. (need to remove starter cable to get access).
17. Remove front guibo. I put the car into neutral to rotate it to get to all the bolts. Make sure the car is level and well supported if you are going to do this - not a good time for a runaway. Put it back into gear before wrenching on it.
18. Loosened 3 of the 4 bolts holding the front diff on. The 4th (upper rear) is very hard to access, but will be accessible once the subframe is lowered
19. Removed nut holding dip stick tube into place.
20. Release banjo fitting on oil separator line
21. Release banjo fitting on oil filter return line
22. Remove alternator belt and unfasten power steering pump (don't disconnect hoses, zip tie out of the way). Two bolts and a nut. That rear nut is a PITA.
23. Remove AC belt and bottom two bolts on AC belt tensioner
24. Remove lower oil pan cover (I removed the level sensor as I will change that gasket now, too - but it could stay attached to the cover if you wanted).
25. Remove e-torx bolts holding oil pan to bell housing
26. Remove lots of 10mm (and two 13mm) head bolts all around the oil pan, working inside and out. I left two on opposites sides to keep it from crashing down when I wasn't ready. There are several different lengths. I think I can keep track, but if you can't make a map for yourself.

Lowering the subframe - this is where I wasted some time trying to be creative. TIS says lower it 4 inches and says to release the clamp attaching the steering column to the rack. I have had bad luck getting the racks lined up, so I was reluctant to do this, but it is a must. I put jack stands under the subframe in the rear and and old scissor jack under the subframe in the front so I could lower it in a control manner. TIS suggests supporting the subframe on long bolts. The local stores didn't have any - you would need four M12x1.5x150mm long bolts.

27. Provide support for subframe (it is heavy even without engine weight), and then loosen the 6 big e-torx bolts holding it on.
28. Loosen bolt clamping steering shaft to the steering rack. I had to pry on it a little bit to get the spline to slide off. Man, I do not like that design.
29. Lower subframe about 4 inches.
30. Unbolt last bolt on diff. I used my floor jack to hold the weight so I wouldn't break it (or me!). Wiggle it a little bit to get it loose, and then lower and move out of the way.
31. Take out remaining couple of bolts on oil pan. Nada. Doesn't budge. Go find the bolt you overlooked. Go ahead. I will wait. Good. Now go find the other bolt you overlooked. Stop playing with the dog and go look. See, I knew you could!
32. Pry oil pan a little bit to overcome the gasket adhesive. There are good lips for this toward the rear to pry on. It didn't take much.
33. Wiggle oil pan downwards and toward the rear. The subframe and steering rack are still a little in the way, but it will come out.
34. Clean up those gasket surfaces.
35. Time for a break. Or a drink. Or both.

__________________
David.X5
2001 X5 4.4i Sport
SOLD! at 160k miles