Quote:
Originally Posted by diyanich
A loose chain wouldn't make valve timing overlap,a few skipped teeth would.
In this case..do a leak down test,which is : manually turning the crankshaft so the piston gets into a TDC put a pressure into cylinder.If you have bent valves then you know it right away.
There are a few threads discussion this method here.
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It's kind of taking a risk because if the timing is off, I risk further damage. However, if I don't do the compression test, the only other way of checking is pulling the head. Which I am not trying to do. but I guess it's already effed up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plattus1000
If you need a running, in car m62tub44, I am about to pull mine for an engine swap. 155k miles, light vanos rattle and the timing guides should be done in the next 20k miles. I assume the previous owner did them @ 100k but they never gave me paperwork to support that notion so best to be safe.
No codes and always serviced at bmw certified shops running full synthetic oil on every change.
I would stick with the tu44. Easier job rebuilding it than swapping in a b44 and dealing with electrical issues.
In my humble opinion. BTW, sorry the rig you bought had issues when you got it.
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Yea. I planned on keeping the VANOS setup. The only thing I would plan on swapping was the VANOS heads to the B44 block. But I am favoring just doing the chain and VANOS on my broke one and selling the B44. Almost feel like I wasted 5hrs of my Sunday pulling this engine from a BMW conveniently located in a puddle. I hate that salvage yard. They wont move vehicles so you dont have to work under water.