Good day all!!

Well, another chapter in this quest...

I test fitted the alternator while it was on the engine stand. The oil cooler assembly gets in the way, but it goes on rather easily when it is in the vehicle...Additionally, I installed and tightened it in place three times before I was done with it...It is easier to install the power wire and connector prior to putting it in place...So, every time you remove this, you need to tap the bottom bolt with a hammer to push the locking lug out...



This is how it should look to install it...






And all tightened up (notice the bolt in the gap)...





Got the new crankcase vent kits... The new cover doesn’t look the same because there is no hose that goes on the end fitting, so BMW got rid of it...



So, this might be interesting... I pulled the cover to the coil harness housing so I knew exactly where it would sit when installed...I did all that to figure out where the ground wire caps for the valve cover went...





I figured out that the tall ones go along the top and short ones go on the bottom...



The two ground caps go in the center at the top...



All back together so wires don’t get buggered up...



I bent this pulling the motor... I pulled the motor without valve covers...I had to find an alternate spot to lift the motor due to the covers being included with the installation...





The plug tubes were a pain to get on... The outside bolts go on rather easily...But the eight cam cap nuts were crazy to get installed...I can’t imagine doing them with the motor installed...I tightened slightly, tapped, tightened, tapped...and did that for all 16...Rubber dead blow hammer!!Do not hit your plastic valve cover with a ball peen hammer!!Things might not work out that well for ya!!!





With the valve cover installed, even the rubber grommet won’t come out... It gets locked on the top of the cam cap nut...



I tried to get this centered during the valve cover install process...



I knew this was the correct way only because of the marks the old one made on the cover... I also don’t see it working out that well flipped over...



This gets a new O-ring too... It’s in the kit...



New, also in the kit...



Added for the installation... I pulled the motor with this still connected...I think it was easier...



If you don’t have a 14mm allen for this, find one of these... I got this some many years back when I swapped my 2.82 rear diff for the 3.15 in my E39...I tap this in place and if it gets stuck, I thread the all thread rod in and pull it out...



Push it up tight and loosen...





All dressed up and ready for install!! Isn’t that just a sight?!





I have this chain with angled rectangular plates on the ends that happen to fit perfectly at the knock sensor locations and supported the motor evenly with much delight!





Lifted the engine stand too... I felt good about it holding the whole time!!



And look how level it is here!! I was amazed how well balanced it turned out this way!!







Going in was slow!! I didn’t want to rush through this part and mess up something vital!!My better half assisted me with this process!!Thanks babe!!



Okay, having done it this way, I will say I think it might be easier to install this side first... BUT, leave the passenger side off...There is enough room on the pass side to have a small football game...But getting the nuts on the driver side with the motor installed was frustrating and time consuming!!!



You must put the pass side manifold on before you install the compressor and you will need to move the dipstick tube to the side slightly for one nut...

I did NOT break the A/C system... (spoiler - I’m writing this after I started the motor...It started fine)...The A/C works great!!



I thought it would be a good idea to remove the brake booster vac pump... Too close, but it probably would have cleared...



It was a pain to get it around this!! The compressor goes under the motor mount bracket, but the tube here goes over it...Yep!A huge PITA!!



Lots of room... For now...



This is touching, but barely!!



All the obvious stuff on top, but don’t forget the trans cooler lines and the oil pan... They run by the oil pan, but things can get moved around and such...Not to mention the motor isn’t going to go straight down...



It’s close, but there is enough room on this side...



This is touching the fuel line... Close over here!!!



This is finally over and in place...



And it’s in there!! YAY!!



That’s it for now... Stay tuned for the next chapter...

Cheers for now!!!

__________________
2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)