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Great questions and answers. Unfortunately we can not look at the caliper and rotor from a far (Pics don't really give you an idea of what is really happening).
Rear brakes have the parking brake inside so there is a little more complexity involved as far as problem diagnostics are concerned.
One of the fastest ways to confirm caliper hanging up ("sticking", i.e. piston not retracting after pedal release) is to measure rotor temp after a road test. left to right, front & rear. Any IR tester will confirm. TEST HOT, not after 2 mins of driving.
Next pull the wheel and inspect the brake material and calipers - pad wear the same L to R? Any foreign material in between the rotor and splash shield? caught in the caliper? Pad wear on one pad (outer pad for example is a sure sign of caliper not "floating" back on the pins but binding and allowing one pad to be in contact when the brake pressure is released.
In any case both calipers should have been replaced or rebuilt as you did. The question I would have are they now matching in bore size. The bleeder screws are replaceable and can have the wrench flats different but the screw threads the same. (Not an issue whatsoever) Check the casting numbers to confirm if they are rebuilt/new. Ours use ATI brand calipers OE on most applications. Bleeding the brake fluid every other year prevents most caliper issues on BMWs.
Do a little visual inspection and you will see what if anything is happening.
No fluid leaks, Pad contamination, etc? RIGHT?
Helpful?
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2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....
Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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