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Old 09-01-2016, 05:28 PM
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THE VEIN THE VEIN is offline
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Location: New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
Lets get some real information before you run back to the white box auto parts retailer with another "failed" unit.

Has the charging system been tested on your vehicle?
What is the voltage at idle, 1,500 and 2500 RPM? What was the amp output at 1500 rpm?

Has the starting system been tested in your vehicle?
Starter amp draw?
Battery Load tested (volts and amps?)
Battery voltage at rest (key off)?
Battery voltage at idle?
Battery voltage at 1500 rpm?

These simple tests will tell anyone with auto diagnostic skills, what is going on. Everything else will be Scientific Wild Ass Guess > SWAG, based on personal experiences and other general guessing.

Notes:
Cheaply manufactured Alternators have approx 32% failure rate. A cheap Alternator with a cheap volt regulator installed makes that rate low. In a price driven world of remans, the installer is the first and last step in quality control.
Many posters have experienced what you are going through. It was their solution to replace the offending alternators with new Bosch units that resulted in solving their issues. IMHO the volt regs are the weak point on most of the white box alternators being sold at the auto part chains.

Stick with OE or OE Aftermarket as the original one lasted 100k.
voltage at idle is 13.5v-13.3v
at 1500rpm its 13.9v-13.7v
at 2,500rpm if the light isn't on about the same as 1500rpm
if it is on drops to low 12v.

i didn't check anything else

and my car had a valeo in it to begin with
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