|
Next test is the battery condition. Attached is a great write up by a community college tech teacher showing proper methodology and metrics.
Note: You can simulate a "load draw test", by turning on every accessory (don't forget the rear window defroster) on high for a 60 sec hit. You will NEVER get to 250 amps but it will pull the surface charge off the battery for a backyard quickie test.
The tests are always: Key in your pocket, test at battery terminals not under the hood. Then RE-test under the hood to confirm that the wiring and connections are at 0 resistance (or close enough).
Tip 1: Test the large positive jump point on the firewall to make sure it is tight. Multiple people have experienced fluctuations of start/no start issues from this connector.
Tip 2: Check the wiring harness from the alternator and starter for breaks in the insulation and wires chaffing.
Search "VOLT DROP TESTING" and check the cables and grounds in and around the trunk mounted battery.
Bottom line: Test all and confirm "KNOWN GOOD" what is left is what is bad.
Good luck and hopefully this is helpful.
__________________
2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....
Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
Last edited by StephenVA; 09-02-2016 at 08:33 AM.
|