Quote:
Originally Posted by PropellerHead
I think they are. Same parts in front doors as are in the rear deck. I pulled the grills from the rear deck tonight and found what looked like brown paper bags surrounding the speakers. The biggest consideration here is the 3 legged 10mm(?) hex screws. The 4 mounts in the JL's I have aren't offset like the HKs. I am sure an adapter would fix this, but I am actively seeking a solution that keeps my snips and silicon to a minimum if possible.
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Pop in your sedan info onto BSW they actually give pictures and sizing of the speakers for replacement - looks like the midranges are the same 65mm versions on the front and rear doors of the E46 sedan so those Peerless/Vifa midranges found previously would work -
And yeah I definitely could hear a difference with the Memphis midranges installed by themselves, as Mike would say "pillows were lifted" from that speaker location - well worth the $35, even if I had to do some trimming with tin snips and the tight location made getting the factory wiring harness/capacitor tucked back into place a PIA -
I'm assuming the doors will be a much more fun and sound-changing install - but those will probably wait until spring -
I will say, after comparing the two side by side, the rear door midrange as well as the dash midrange is the same driver on DSP and non-DSP E53's - it just has a different mount (the two "wings" for the dash) -
I did some RealOEM digging as well and if you guys really want to know more, the only difference in non-DSP and DSP speakers on the E53 is the 4 door woofers (and the sub obviously) - the front door tweeters, rear door midranges and dash midranges are the SAME part # whether you have DSP or not - I am curious to see if the DSP door woofers are a factory 2ohm like semco Mike found out, or if they are 8 ohm like the other factory speakers -
And you want to talk about OCD - I am contemplating buying another set of Memphis Midranges just because when the set was installed I felt like I had to trim with the tin snips a lot to get them to sit flush in place, and probably should have made the mounting holes more oval in order to get the screws properly started, yes I know, with the grille in place you can't tell a damn thing but that OCD gets me - part of it was that factory capacitor was taking up a lot of room in the space - did you end up stuffing it down where the rest of the wire harness went Prop? Or did you just wrap it in place around the midrange speaker like it was when you took the factory driver out?