Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight
The hole in my tool measured out to be 29.75 on a digital caliper. This is the X5 forum, that is why I mentioned that it will not work on our X.
Like in the building trade, a 2x4 is not 2" x 4" but is actually 1.625" x 3.625". 2x4 is the nominal dimensions not the actual dimension same with 2" round steel tubing or pipe.
Here's a website that tells you what diameter hole you need for a M27 bolt to be in order for it to fit.
Mechanical: Clearance holes for Metric Screws
You will not use the tight fit since you do not want the CV joint to be stuck in the tools. You will use the "Free fit" so that the cv joint can be pulled out. As you can see you need a hole that is 32mm which is a lot bigger than 30 or 29.75.
If you don't want to believe me that just fine with me. Perhaps I'm just going to stop posting on this forum. |
I hope you do keep posting, since I often gain a lot of insight from your posts.
But here, the clearance hole thing is not relevant. An M27 screw will have a major diameter of about 26.97mm. It will fit in a 27.00mm hole if allowed to align itself. A 28mm hole will seem huge. A 29.75mm hole is gigantic. Definitely not a problem for the M27 threaded portion.
A clearance hole (again, not relevant here) is the diameter of a hole that will clear the screw but not clear the head. So if it is a 36 mm nut, technically anything from about 27mm to 36mm would work as a clearance hole. But then for practical reasons of binding/alignment you want a little more. If you had multiple holes that all had to line up, you'd want something bigger than the minimum to provide a tolerance for that. But here, there is one hole, one screw, and it is practically self-aligning. 29.75mm is plenty to clear the threaded section.
From looking at the photo
cn90 provided, it looks like the splined section will definitely be a problem. To make this tool work, first, it may only be possible to get one or two turns of threads on, and then it would need to be re-positioned frequently. I can believe that maybe what looks to be feasible but difficult might actually be impossible due to threads being beveled, or other minor factors, so that by the time threading it on starts to load up and apply force on the joint, it is already hitting the splined section before anything can move. If true, then it would be useless.
So I can definitely believe that you tried this exact (clone) tool and it would not work. Thanks for reporting that.
But maybe foolish optimisim makes me think that maybe trying a little harder may have made it possible. How many times is it reported on here that it is impossible to remove the rear suspension lower ball joints with a PepBoys rental bushing press? (answer = everywhere, and it is commonly understood to be impossible) Except that I did it myself. Not that I would recommend it to anyone, or do it again myself ...