There is a formula to determine linear force from turning a nut. It worked out to about 30-35,000# to remove my front bearing from the carrier. It was maybe 22-25,000 # to install. (bearing was negative 10°F to reduce the size by about 0.003" diameter.
Greasing the threads is absolutely necessary.
The rod that came with and the proto tools replacement both looked very decent and based on when they failed were at least Gr5.
3/4 Gr2 has 15,380# force
3/4 Gr5 has 23,780# force
3/4 Gr8 has 33,570# force
It is possible based on my torque to force calculation the original rod was G8 since the math worked out to > 30,000# to remove the bearing. That being said the threads came off like corn coming off the cob. I ended up with almost smooth cylinders. So I'm pretty sure they were G5.
If you can find Gr 8 bolt in 3/4-20 that has 34,760# rated clamp force that should work without having to bore out the plates to 1".
It takes 325 ft·lb lubricated torque to achieve that level of force.
The 1" Gr8 I now have however can push 61,190# but takes 765 ft·lb of torque to get there. Even with my monster torque wrench it's only 700 ft·lb so I guess I can only push with 56,000# of force but 28T force and way below the limits of the bolt so I won't possibly strip it.
The smaller bearing from the back wheel probably took 15-20,000# to install and it went on like butter. No heating or cooling needed just assemble and into a stack around the bolt and turn the nut until things stopped moving.
I need to replace my 3/4" rod to use with the smaller plates I didn't drill out to 1". I may just look for bolts rather than the official threaded push rods which seem to be Gr5.
I paid something stupid low for the 1" bolts maybe $6 each. I have to stack extra plates as shown because the bolt is not full thread but I figure that makes it stronger.
I also usually use an oil infused bronze thrust bushing not shown in this picture. It needs to be over 1/8" though, as when I used the 1/16" it just squirted out like it was made of clay! (What a surprise!)