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Old 12-10-2017, 10:06 PM
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Skyline Skyline is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devildogae View Post
That is good advice. I always torque to spec when I work on things. I agree that most use their guns, I would do the same. I guess it would be better to take to BMW and have them torque it down, and charge me for 30 min labor. That sounds like a plan.

My gun wouldn't over torque I'm sure, but if I can get to 250+ torque lbs vs 330 or whatever it is, I can't see that causing it to fail.
If you're going to do this job yourself, have the right tools on hand. If you're off on the torque of the center nut, you could very possibly destroy the brand new bearing, even with a short drive. If you don't want to buy a 3/4" torque wrench, find someone who knows the technique to torque to the max with a 1/2" torque wrench with the follow-up rotation, (similar to a torque angle spec.) This is an unofficial workaround. I believe it can be found in one of the mechanic's software programs like Identifix, or Mitchell. Otherwise, let a competent mechanic/dealer do the WHOLE job.

BTW, my 1/2" impact will do 800ft lbs tightening, and over 1,000 to remove stuff. My 3/8" gun will be just about right though; it's rated at 325ft lbs.

Your X5 is a "Modern Era" BMW in that many bolt/nuts are single use, torque-to-yield or just normal fasteners that really are critical for torque. I would never consider using an air gun to put on an axle bolt, or a wheel nut, although Japanese cars tend to have MUCH more fragile wheel studs than the BMW bolts...by FAR.
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2004 BMW 325xi
2000 BMW 528i 5sp
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