Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline
Well that compression test is NOT a favorable result. Usually, when adding oil does not bring the compression up, that means the leak is through a valve. This is better confirmed with a leak down test. When you add shop air to the cylinder through an adapter into the suspect cylinder, you can see where the air comes out; oil fill cap, tailpipe, or intake. I could see a scenario where a valve guide seal was bad for so long that the carbon build up is now preventing a valve from completely closing.
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Second/new gauge + leak down test is the next 'to-do'. I'll post those results (maybe early next week) once done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline
Was this car exhibiting the classic signs of bad valve guide seals? (Punch the gas after idling a few minutes and get a big cloud of smoke out the exhaust; but otherwise running more or less normally.
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Yep, I didn't wait very long to do the valve seals once the smoke started (maybe a couple of weeks, after heavy research). No lights up to that point, and a couple of codes that I fixed. One for coolant, which was a rotted fitting for the upper radiator hose and one caused by a bad seal or crack in the crankcase vent hose (replaced same day). No other codes or Lights.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline
Assuming it's an valve leak, you might want to get a boroscope into that spark plug hole and see if you can determine what's wrong. If there's heavy carbon build up around the valves, getting that removed might solve this problem. I had previously suggested a way to do that.
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The cheap boroscope I have stopped working, so need to pick another one up. Went to use it while I had the valve cover off and no picture.
I know for sure the top of the piston is covered.
I've been looking at the kit you suggested and am 95% sure I'm going that route before anything else. I've keep hoping it's a sludge/carbon issue that just needs to get cleaned up.