One other pro tip for this job - not depicted here. When you replace the eccentric shaft, you may need to transfer the shaft position magnet from the old eccentric shaft to the new one. In my case, the donor head was from an E65 and the magnet was different. I used a 36" utility ratcheting bar clamp with rubber pads on the vice ends. I clamped this down super hard on the gear face in the middle of the shaft, then held on to the end of the bar clamp for leverage as I torqued the fastener on the magnet. Worked like a charm.

Also not mentioned above - as you will have to remove both camshaft gears for this job, note that these bolts are one-time use, and must be replaced. Be smart and order yours ahead of time, or you will pay $30 for Amazon next day delivery like me. For TWO bolts. Ughhh.

When you are loosening or fastening the exhaust gear bolt, the oil cooler hard lines are in the way. Same applies when removing or installing the upper timing case cover on that side, actually. I was able to somehow fit a very specific combination of ratchet extensions in between the two hardlines and engage the bolt to apply the prescribed torque to the fastener. I wish I could explain better. Bottom line, figure out how to extend your connection to the fastener outward toward the front of the vehicle to clear the lines, while still being able to connect your torque wrench in the space forward of the engine, behind the radiator. It's pretty tricky, but definitely doable.

Lastly - no matter what anyone says, it is absolutely possible to accurately torque every fastener you touch on this job. It is a matter of having 1/4" inch-pound and a 1/2" foot-pound torque wrenches and a lot of different length extensions in order to position the wrench in a spot where you have access to achieve enough range of motion. The valve covers are very tricky. BUT DOABLE.