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Ok enough.
I will try NOT to continue this unique discussion on battery testing approaches and thoughts.
Having spent years in the battery tester world, a battery load test with one that can actually carbon pile a 1/2 cold (ZERO) amp output load, followed by a charging system test (Volts, Amp load, ripple, dio test) will pin point 99% of all surface charged, cell wall collapsed, soon to be dead, and wasted batteries, along with poor performing alternators with all sorts of ailments. Having sold thousands of units and tested 100,000 + batteries across the entire US market with that approach, I can say that "if it is questionable THROW IT AWAY". Batteries are cheap compared to a tow.
Surface only charged batteries cause more issues and shop returns. TEST TEST and more TESTs should pin point the failure.
You both are OK, lots more important issues in the DIY world to focus on as most of this back and forth is in the ASE/SAE Engineering scope level of conversation. WAY WAY beyond this forum.
Photo: Example of an analog version with 500 amp load capacity. Era 2000 designed in 1950! Number 1 shop level tester sold for 40 years. Replaced by the digital one 1997, still out sold the digital one for another 8 years.... Work horse. This one is my own. Solved lots of "my car will not start again" pain... WHAT? Doesn't everyone have a $1,000 VOLT Amp Tester sitting around?
Next topic!
__________________
2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....
Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
Last edited by StephenVA; 03-27-2019 at 10:42 PM.
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