Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011x5
Damn Im tired today but I guess I had to fetch the codes to explain it a little better.
The codes that showed up and went away after the rain were JBFF: C907, A737 then DME: 3BCE, 3396 then FZD: DE84
As soon as it would stop raining these would go away.
Drains were cleaned with weed wack wire and compressor, dealer confirmed all drain lines were clear at time of their water test, but they still said the cassette must be cracked which is bs because i taped up the sunroof before to test if this was the problem area and it wasn't.
For the harness they did not replace the whole harness but the corroded wires which they did show to me on the back of the fuse box. This is what is listed on the work order:
S1 3 MCH REMOVE/REPLACE CABLE CONNECTORS 61-13-8-353-746 36.30 * 0.0* T
S1 4 MCH REMOVE/REPLACE SHRINKING HOSE 61-13-1-379-833 56.20 * 0.0* T
S1 5 MCH REMOVE/REPLACE CABLE TIES 61-13-1-367-599 13.44 * 0.0* T
S1 6 MCH ADD'L LABOR OP WIRING REPAIR Existing 3.0*
And trust me Im a detail guy its just Iv had a long bad day and to top it off I go to pick up my car and some morons screwed up my car more then when i brought it in.
So im not running to the lawyer but im wanted to see if anyone else had the same experience where the dealer returns the car with a check engine light and it was brought in in perfect condition. I mean come on I bring it in with a water leak problem and they tell me the valvetronic system is going.
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There we go...
So, I assume you know that 'best practice' is to read codes and write them down..then reset and see what returns. But looking at the codes I concur they seem to be related to shorts, corrosion within comm lines. But replacing wires and connectors seems to be pissing away $. If water has gotten inside the modules, caused corrosion (and this is VERY common) relacing what they see outside wont help.
Have you looked at the IBS?
I would CAREFULLY look at all the modules in the trunk, consider opening modules if there is any evidence of water staining. Then replace if there is corrosion. (The salts that can come with corrosion can become conductive with high humidity, water- and THAT can cause intermittent errors. Linked to rain.
Finally, I have a theory around your 'total failure of the entire valvetronic system requiring $5000 replacement': They are idiots, liars or thieves. (Well, to be honest, they might be right- but thats low on my list)
If they were Fing with your car, the doors were open... This, combined with 'who knows what' on your busses due to corrosion, bad contacts, could lead to low power. When they went to start the car, the BMW voltage/load system gave the starter power, but failed to give enough voltage to the DME/contrls. ANd you got a spurious vlvetronic error.
They simply pulled the codes and quoted you the absolute worst case price, perhaps even knowing they had no real diagnosis.
(You didnt provide the current errors nor the testing they had t do to definitively give you a $5k price.....)
Finally. To answer your question...it is INCREDIBLY hard to get a dealer to admit to a error. In fact, a buddy took his combat pay from Iraw and bought an E60M5. His baby. Took it to the dealer for an oil change...tech took it for a 'test drive (aka joyride) and totaled it. It took Tommy 2 years to win a lawsuit for 150k. Lawyer took half, tommy got a new M5.
Dealers dont admit fault. And proving they are on the hook for a CEL in their possession is very hard. Very. You need a tech to sign a letter saying "i did it", and even then.....
Oh, one more finally- I would insist on a written document that states the CEL came on whe they had it; the codes they found; the diagnostic tests they performed (and if none, force them to say 'none', along with a written $5k estimate with itemized tasks. IIRC this is your legal right in California. Take 3 minutes and google CA BAR (bureau of auto repair) so you have a smidge of the lingo and rules, might get some attention. If nothing else, you are rubbing their noses in their own $hit.
Then clear the codes, charge the battery, maybe change the IBS (?) and drive it.