Wife's car went into engine limp mode today. Indications were MAF or big intake leak.
I unplugged MAF and idle went from hell to useful and car drove ok except a transmission error kicked on (that was MAF error related)
Shifts were horrible. Slam shifting but I drove a bit then decided I'd rather have crap idle and good shifts so plugged MAF back in and drive home to a garage ..with MAF cleaner I picked up.
Put a glove on the air intake and blew and I could hear the air just venting like crazy
(No smoke needed I could hear it just whizzing out)
Took off disa valve because it's a common leak and I've not rebuilt hers yet and it's way overdue.
Disa was blown. But rather than use the $230 part.or the $75 repair kit I used 18¢ worth of nuts and bolt
6-32 1" screw with a #6 lock washer to help snug the screw head.
(3) 6-32 nuts. Aligned while snugging tight and with thread lock to keep them in place. (unfortunately the mechanism twists in the direction that loosens the nuts).
Some heat shrink tubing. The dimensions of the nut were about 0.3mm smaller than the inside of the flap. This was perfect. Tight fit I had to press in with force, no wobble whatsoever.
Since the pin side also was wobbly, I drilled out the now conical holes to be nice and sharp cylinders and put some shrink wrap around the pin to make it fit perfectly. I intentionally didn't drill all the way so it was very snug at the end and is held tight in the flap and rotates on the disa frame.
Measured the diameter of the disa valve seal and it was about 0.4mm smaller than the opening so I wrapped with 4 wraps of teflon. Made a perfectly tight seal
You can test the valve function by sucking on the little vent hole. If you use a tiny tube it tastes better.
Mid suck.
Oh: you need to of course fine tune the twist of the nuts (ouch) until the flap is 90° open with no vacuum applied and closed tight with vacuum applied.
So there, approximately 1/1400th the price of new part and 1/400th the price of the badass aluminum and titanium repair kit I used on mine.