Quote:
Originally Posted by Haneifk
Sophisticated redneck,
thank you for your help! If they don't take the car back I'll start going thru those when I get it home and hopefully that'll fix it. I do all my own work and have some experience with BMW so hopefully it won't end up costing a ton.
Ard,
yes I bought it without an inspection and yes that was really stupid of me. Probably one of the dumbest things I've ever done  The warranty is a full powertrain warranty (but maybe I'm being naieve? I've never had to use a warranty before so I don't know) saying it covers everything inside the engine/trans/diff/drive shaft etc for the 3mo/3k mile
Also I found a shop that had a scan tool and found 2f24(charge air, cooling system) and 30ff (pressure control boost) going to start researching those now
Also a friend of a friend is a lawyer here in Chicago and there's an addendum that I signed that would allow me to return the car if it has a powertrain issue in the first 15 days? So hopefully I'll have a case to return it.
Also Ard thank you for sharing this post. Much appreciated!
I'm so thankful for all your guys help!
Edit: from what I'm seeing online maybe a wastegate broke off? I'm having the same problem as this guy. "Engine malfunction: reduced power" Error comes on at highway speeds only. Goes off after car restart
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...topics/1178497 |
Happy to help. You have a bug hunt on your hands...Basically the error code is telling you the computer is looking for a specific boost target and its not getting it...That can be caused by about a dozen different things....from leaky vacuum tubes and CCV lines, to bad wastegates, actuators, sensors, etc..so you have some work to do...
Recommend you start with the easiest first to start narrowing the list :
Check and double check and then check once more all of your CCV lines and vacuum lines. The CCV lines are particularly nasty...they are a corrugated plastic and can operate fine when idling, hiding a crack in them that opens up only under boost. They also house special 2 way check valves that can wear out....
Then check your wastegates. Being worn at 60K is about 40K premature of when they usually go and indicative that this car had the hell driven out of it if it turns out to be them.
The bushings in the wastegates normally become worn out normally around 100K and can give the 30ff error as they will no longer fully close. You can actually adjust it so they close and get another 20-30k out of it before they become so worn they need to be rebuilt.
To do this, grab a hand held vacuum pump (like used for bleeding brakes) and attach to the wastegate actuator. at -10psi the wastegates should be firmly closed. If you can still move them by hand then adjust the control rod. If you cant get it tight at -10psi then you have no choice but to rebuild.
If the wastegates turn out to be ok, then next check your diverter valves and pressure regulators. With the foxwell NT510, you can monitor both the left and right side boost levels. This will help point you in the right direction if you are getting a large variance between both turbos boost levels
You can also monitor your intake air temps, possible issue with your intercoolers cooling too. but focus on the 30ff code first...this is a complicated machine....any rig with 5 water pumps (Yes 5!) will be.....Good luck and let us know how it turns out