DIY: 2006 BMW E53 X5 3.0i Brake Line Replacement
- Searching forums, info on brake line (metal line) repair is scattered with bits and pieces all over the place.
I am doing this to consolidate all PNs, Special Tool, local Auto Parts store info in one place the help others.
- Although this is written for
2006 BMW E53 X5 3.0i with 130K miles,
you can use this technique for any car.
TOOLS and PARTS:
1. Basic tool: 8-mm, 10-mm socket. Screwdriver to remove rivets (pry the center pin outward to remove the plastic rivet).
---> Strongly recommend Flare wrenches: 11-mm (O'Reilly line is 11 mm), 12-mm (Advance Auto line is 12-mm), and 15mm.
Best is to buy a set of metric flare wrenches.
2. Bending Tool about $8 at Harbor Freight.
This tool is a MUST to bend the line.
Pay attention which way to bend it, you have one chance to bend the line correctly!
3. Special Tool: this is an interesting topic.
Most local autoparts store do
NOT sell or loan BUBBLE Flare tool.
O'Reilly and Advance Auto loan the DOUBLE Flare tool only.
- Although some youtube videos say you can use DOUBLE flare tool to make BUBBLE flare, it will be a hit-and-miss issue.
I strongly recommend using the correct Bubble Flare tool.
-
Neiko 20657A ISO Bubble Flare Tool, about $23 online (amazon etc.), this is the exact same tool as the
OTC 4504
(about $33 online).
Search for the reviews on amazon, a lot of good tricks there.
I really like the Neiko tool, please read on for tricks to keep the tool last longer.
4. Brake Fluid: I use DOT4 brake fluid from O'Reilly Auto. The brand is
"BrakeBest", probably made by Valvoline (just a guess).
I have had good experience with this brake fluid for 10 years.
I bought 1 qt, which is plenty for this job.
5. Expanding Rivet
PN is 51118174185, about 35 cents/each. Local dealer wanted 75 cents each.
I bought from local dealer b/c shipping cost adds up to the same amount.
6. O'Reilly and Advance Auto sells metal brake line: either steel or NiCopp
(NiCopp is 2-3 times the price of steel).
Since the car came with steel, I used steel but next time probably NiCopp
as this is easier to flare and to bend.
But steel is OK too.
This is my list of purchase. You may need longer line if your rusted
section is longer:
* Two (2) 30-inch lines, with the bolts included.
* Two (2) extra 8-inch lines for different purposes: to practice and to get the extra bolts.
* Four (4) BUBBLE FLARE metric unions.
- O'Reilly carries the UNION made by "American Grease Stick" (or AGS).
The BLU8B (Zinc) is for ISO Bubble Flare type.
"BLU" = ? perhaps stands for "Blue"
"8" = their type of Union.
"B" = Bubble.
Although the thread is
M10 x 1.0, the outside of the nut is 1/2" type! You can use 13-mm wrench if you don't have the 1/2-inch wrench.
The 1/2-inch wrench is better for counter-hold.
- Make sure you have an extra car, bicycle or Uber in case you screw up and need to go to the parts store.
- Common screw-ups:
a. Forget to insert the bolt before making flare.
b. Forget to place the bolt at the flare BEFORE bending the line.
- The factory line is 4.75 mm (which means the O.D. = 4.75 mm, I.D. = about 2 mm).
You can use 3/16-inch (or 4.7625 mm) line at local auto parts store
and this will be fine.
- Material: Steel vs Ni-Copp. Search forum for the debate between the two types. O'Reilly Auto Parts carries both types pre-flared with the bolts.
- The bolt that comes with the metal line: factory is M10 x 1.0.
Make sure you get the
bubble flare type with M10 x 1.0 bolts.
Do NOT buy the bubble flare line with "Standard SAE bolts".
- Note that for two (2) REAR brake lines, BMW used different unions
M12 vs M10 to prevent confusion in the factory assembly line. But
both pipes are the same with O.D. = 4.75 mm.
PROCEDURE:
1. The brake bleeding procedure. You can do 2-man vs 1-man.
I built an ATE cap a long time ago to be used with an air compressor
set at 10 psi.
- This has worked great for me for > 15 years.
- Detail on how to make the ATE cap is below:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=392957
---> You can also buy the similar bleeding cap at FCPEuro (
CTA # 7092 for $15).
2. To prevent brake fluid loss, there are 2 tricks:
* Use a rubber glove and rubber band and somehow make a tight seal at the reservoir cap.
* Use a wood stick about 26" long and wedge it against the SW and brake pedal.
Note that I use shop towel for cushion to prevent damage to the SW leather.
3. The plastic cover: I lost counts of quantity!
- The 8-mm screws (qty = ? 11 or so).
- The 10-mm screws: about qty= 5-6 or so.
- The expanding rivets (qty = 6 or so).
- I drilled a few holes (3/4" hole) this way I can rinse this area during warm days > 32F in the winter to prevent corrosion.
4. Search forum and youtube for difference of: SINGLE Flare, DOUBLE Flare and BUBBLE Flare.
- Most Euro cars use BUBBLE Flare type.
- Before you flare any line, SLOW DOWN and make sure you INSTALL the bolt before making the Flare.
- Same thing with bending line: make sure the bolt sits at the BUBBLE flare before bending the line. I learned it the hard way!
- Clamp the side near the tube first.
Then tighten the other nut.