Reviving this thread ... Sounds like I have the same problem, and will try to fix it vs. replacing the module.
Trying to fix some problems with central locking on my US 2001 3.0i.
These problems mostly started, I think, when I dropped the
driver's door window switch cluster onto the ground, while removing the door inner panel. If only I had 3 hands at the time ...
So jumping to the conclusion here, I'm thinking something is wrong in there and am soliciting ideas on what to look for as I take it apart.
Symptoms:
windows all work perfectly
key remotes do not work at all, even after recharging batteries and multiple attempts at reprogramming (which I have done successfully a few times before this failure)
key in door works perfectly to lock/unlock and open/close windows and sunroof
central locking button works to unlock all doors
central locking button FAILS to lock any doors. Never ever locks anything that way.
Alarm appears to set as it should. Flashing clown nose, etc.
Every single time setting out on a drive, after a few seconds of driving, I get a
bogus "DOOR OPEN" warning message on the instrument panel, a gong sound, and then the warning goes away. (and of course, there is no door open). This occurs even with the switch assembly removed.
Debugging so far:
Nothing interesting with Foxwell NT520Pro
PA Soft gave 3 errors in ZKE Central Body Electric, including
Central locking mechanism short-circuited, driver’s door
I can clear the faults and they come right back.
If I physically remove the part, the codes remain gone. And when locking/unlocking the driver's door, I need to use the key turning 90 degrees, vs. 45 when the power locks work.
If I swap in a different door lock actuator (different part), there is no change. So hopefully that rules out an issue with the DLA.
After a quick opening of the window switch control panel (or whatever the real name for it is), it looks to be really clean and nice in there. Nothing like the photos of corrosion elsewhere on this site.
Any ideas on what to look at / for?