I’m mid way though this job. I found a set of extensions that allowed me simple access to the E12s and a way to tap the starter off the transmission bell with a long steel bar and a hammer.
I made the goof of not loosening the electrical connections while it was still attached so now I’m stuck. I’ll be starting again tomorrow. I will share the magic arrangement of wobble and flex that got me around the transmission when I wrap.
Also I'll add: simple to disconnect the power at the B+ jumper connection. The power comes from the battery to there and then to the starter and then to the alternator.
Update: the 13mm was way way too tight to remove from below.
I should have went with my instinct and removed the intake air boot and DISA valve to start with since I wasted two hours trying to remove from below.
Anyhow 20 minutes to remove the top of the airbox filter and MAF (didn't even have to remove the snorkle) and I was able to bend the starter into a position I could see the main power connector.
I could get a socket on but could not turn hard enough to loosen so 3 wobble extensions and a flex and I got my mini impact wrench on and two seconds later the nut was off.
Blue : 13mm gorilla tightened nut
Red: intake boot openings
Yellow: DISA valve opening.
Success!
I used the same impact setup to knock off the 10 and 8 mm. Figured why fight it? Notice the vertical chrome bar is a small prybar I have wedged between the starter motor and solinoid for counter torque (would not be needed for imoact)
From below very easy to pull out. (that little hose in the way I think is transmission vent pipe it just pushed out of the way).
I will make a complete write up including how to know if your starter has failed "shorted" as mine did and how to confirm it before you destroy your battery and maybe a friends trying to jump start putting 1000+A though the system. Fortunately the battery voltage drops so fast the solinoid opens but In a fit of temporary moronity I try like six times to slam 1000A into the starter until the solinoid won't pick up and my battery resting voltage is 9.6.
FYI: careful about locking car when battery is low: when I came back I couldn't get in any door besides driver because of double lock and no power. (or trunk of course).
The quick summary of changing starter:
• Jack stands in front is plenty of elbow room
• a few wobble sockets and about 25-30 total inches of extension will get you around the transmission and it's easy to do solo: Hellen Keller style (all by feel you cannot see the top bolt)
• take off the DISA and intake air boot to undo the power connections from above
• B+ disconnects the power: I have an entire trunk full of tools it would have added 60-90 minutes to disconnect battery at the trunk. I won't officially recommend this as I don't know what complications can come from the feedback to DME connector being connected through the starter.
• one bonus: I plan to quick test the starter after the power is hooked up before putting back in the transmission bell. I suppose if you have the trunk empty and open easy enough to reconnect the bat neg back there also.
• a long rod about 30" and a hammer all it takes to knock the starter out of the transmission bell.
I will make a awr-fix thread showing the magical combination of socket extensions that work to get the E12s out and in.
I wanted to add to this post in case anybody needs to replace a starter before I make my official how to thread.
-awr