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Old 07-14-2020, 10:13 PM
bradb bradb is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: NY
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srmmmm View Post
Perhaps this list of my maintenance/repairs will help.
On a regular basis:

> Rotate tires, inspect pads & Rotors, CV boots, general look over every 5000 miles
> Oil / Filter change every 8000 miles
> Brake fluid flush every 30,000 miles

> CV Boot replacement generally every 75,000 miles
> Replace belts and clean CCV every 100,000 miles
> Replace differential and transfer case fluid every 100,000 miles
> Replace sparkplugs every 120,000 miles
> Replace expansion tank, coolant and hoses every 150,000 miles
> Replace brake pads every 163,000 miles (Akebono ceramics)
> Replace rotors-once at 63,000 miles (315,000 miles on current Brembos)

> Automatic transmission fluid – leave it alone in the GM 5L40-E

My unplanned repairs have included:

> Front axles at 60,000 miles (Prior owner didn't maintain CV boots)
> FSR at 78,000 miles
> Two sparkplug coils and accessory belt tensioner at 124,000 miles
> Alternator at 126,000 miles
> Front driveshaft and transfer case at 136,000 (used a salvage TC for cost savings)
> FSR (again) at 159,000 miles
> Thermostat and OFHG at 176,000 miles

> Front tension struts and power steering pressure hose at 192,000 miles
> Rear differential seal at 200,000 miles
> Secondary air pump at 224,000 miles

> Rear suspension bushings and upper control arms at 242,000 miles
> Thermostat (again) at 245,000 miles - at least it was warranty this time
> Steering column double U-Joint shaft at 245,000 miles
> Valve cover gasket at 245,000 miles
> Both fuel tank sending units, fuel pump and canister at 245,000 miles
> Aux fan when the harness got chewed up in the mechanical fan and shorted out at 259,000 miles
> Pre-cat O2 sensors at 260,400 miles

> Water pump at 262,800 miles
> DISA Valve and MAF at 264,000 miles
> Thermostat (again) at 299,000 miles (don’t know what’s going on with these)
> Driver door handle carrier again at 310,600 miles (thought they had these fixed finally)
> Intermediate accessory belt pulley and oil level sensor at 310,600 miles
> Valve cover (not just the gasket) and OFHG at 317,000 miles
> All spark plug coils, MAF and fuel filter at 342,400 miles
> Third FSR at 347,000 miles
> Fourth FSR & harness connector at 357,000 miles – warranty this time
> Engine mounts and rear driveshaft guibo at 357,000 miles
> MAF, Thermostat (again!!!), All front CV boots 361,700 miles
> Pre-cat O2 sensor (Bank #1) at 366,000 miles
> Secondary air pump at 368,000 miles (prior was a used one off eBay)
> Air injection check valve at 377,000 miles
> Front brake tension struts at 378,000 miles


All in all, except for the front driveshaft job that cost $4200, I have really been happy with the vehicle. It doesn't get babied, but I do monitor and maintain it. I think a lot of my good fortune is due to four things: I live in Texas with short winters so I don't have a lot of the CCV condensation problems, my daily commute is 60 miles so the engine oil always reaches full operating temperature, I run the "M" series viscosity engine oil from May through September when I my driving includes 3000 miles of towing a 1400 pound Waverunner and trailer, and I stick with Shell gasoline.

I do believe I’ve figured out what goes on with the thermostat failures. Each one occurred within days of an extended idling period (3-4 hours) while commuting home at a crawl during very cold, icy weather. Under these conditions, every bit of engine heat was consumed trying to keep the windshield clear and the interior warm, so the engine thermostat would have been powered to stay closed or nearly closed most of the time. I suspect a higher current flow to the thermostat for that amount of time simply “burned it up”.
Thanks for the amazing repair detail.

I noticed a failing rubber boot up front and have done nothing about it in the 15k miles I have driven. Have to put that closer to the top of the list.

The alternator has been replaced. Now I can at least get around as this E53 one of my favorites to be the loose nut behind the wheel.

I am about to perform a fuel pressure test as its experiencing a similar issue I have had in two other period BMW E39's. I have never done this test before but appears to be fairly straight forward. Any tips appreciated. I have a new OEM pump on hand to replace it with. If its anything like the E39 that has a new pump this M54 will run very nicely indeed.

Thanks again

Brad
__________________
Bradb
2004 E53 X5 3.0 6MT Sport
Toledo Blue Metallic over black
born 2-12-04 LB09220
Picked up 7-2-18 from Ziggy
BMWCCA 485746
2002 E39 525i 5MT sport Jet black / black
2002 E39 M5 6MT Carbon black / black sport
2003 E39 530i 5MT sport Stahlblau metallic
2004 E46 325ic 5MT sport triple black
2008 E60 M5 SMG Space gray / black
2015 F85 X5M Carbon black / black
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