Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn
Re reading I did say replaced.
Odds of replacing a differential with another differential that has a stripped gear very small.
odds of a mechanic that’s not super qualified swapping a working differential with a different working differential because the CV axle was loose pretty high.
No qualified mechanic will skip the step of hand turn the input of the dif To confirm or deny that the output shaft are both turning before installing or before removing.
Unless I missed something the front Drive propeller was turning which means it was not a transfer case spline which is the common problem described above.
mechanic with experience of a skipping spline will definitely know the difference of the sound versus broken gears.
I have interacted about six of these discussions on Xo. 3 were CV came out, two were TC spline one was dif internal destruction.
And the only post from the original poster it says the front driveshaft was turning and the front wheels were not turning those the back wheels were.
This means the problem is in front of the propeller and I have never heard of a CV joint breaking to the point where it will turn inside itself so the odds are very good the CV axle is loose. Possibly from a previous repair an incompatible part was used where the inner splines were not long enough to properly engage the differential.
At this point it’s just a thought exercise because we have no additional feedback but the discussion as it will hone our diagnostic skills
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First off, thank you everyone. Truly appreciate everything here.
I bought car AS IS from a copart auction. My 4th purchase this year, 3 land cruisers and an lx470, all have arrived in working condition matching the description on the auction listing.
The X5 said "normal wear, runs & drives" When it arrived off the carrier, it did neither. The battery was too dead to start it it with the pack provided by the driver and I couldnt reach the trunk to swap one out. We got enough juice for lights and to put the trans in N.
So I rolled it off the truck, a big multi car hauler, in N, when I hit the brakes it didnt really do much of anything until I pulled the E brake. I'd say I hit the pavement pretty hard, wondering if that could have caused something to snap lose on the front axel.
Anyway, after swapping out the battery for my backup she started right up, I was pumped but it didn't move in gear, rolled in P, made that fine grinding noise going back into P from D that I described earlier.
Got it towed to my "mechanic" who is not great but, has been great when I need to drop off a company car for a master cylinder or brake pads, starter, etc. Lets me bring my own parts, very reasonable prices, etc.
Once we got it on the lift and hit the gas in D we all noticed a rattling noise from the front diff, sounded like a large bolt was being shaken around a metal box or something.
So I went to a yard nearby and got a front diff, it was clean, no gear wear, oil was still visable, it was clean and when I turn the part that bolts to the front drive shaft, the internals seemed to move nicely, everything felt good.
Also, when I spun the front wheels with the car on the lift, the other did not move. When I did this with the rear wheels, the other wheel spun in the opposite direction. When I spun the front pass wheel, the front driver wheel did not spin.
I wasn't there to check how this worked after he swapped the diff and when I got back it was on the ground and still no movement. But it felt like it was almost there, you could feel the car sort of kick or jerk or try and give you a little push when In D or R when previously the drive shaft was just spinning freely with that rattling noise from the front diff.
I was ready to go buy some after market front drive shaft assembly and just have him swap it out, I know its not the trans, it could be the TC chain, but I would like to look at the front CV's and rule that out before i start with the TC.