Its a beast of a job. I messed up and didn't have the engine at TDC of the #1 compression stroke (cams were 180 from where they should be). Couldn't put it back together without it binding when I turned it over by hand so I ended up pulling and reinstalling the cams which added some time and labor. So here are a few extra pointers:
1. Follow the diy's to a T and make sure you read through the entire DIY a couple times right before you do the work.

2. The lower timing cover bolts that are installed form the bottom (6 total) are a bitch to get to, the rear 2 (one on either side) are the biggest bitch. You have to remove the power steering pump. The pump has 3 mounting points, the two bolts in the front and a stud in the back that is likely covered in gunk. Find it, clean it so the threads are bare and you should be able to squeeze your hand in to undo the contraption. there is a large hand nut (i have no idea what to call it) that's made to be turned by hand on the front of the bracket, once loosened you should be able to either unbolt the stud from the pump body or remove the rear nut attaching the stud to the lower cover.
3. The lower timing cover will be very tough to remove from the lower oil pan, I suggest using some waxed dental floss or a thin feeler gauge that you are willing to sacrifice to run between the lower timing cover and upper oil pan gasket because if you damage the gasket the replacement requires lifting the engine halfway out of the car or dropping the subframe.
4. When reassembling, if you use a thin enough zip tie on the guides you can leave it on while you install the upper chain tensioner and then break it and pull it out with a set of needle nose pliers.

I'm sure there are more things I'll think of and as I do I'll ad them. GL

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Again Daily Driven SC'd 4.6iS, whats the point of having a sweet ride if you dont use it all the time.