Okay, truck is driving amazing. Better than it ever has. Better throttle response, easier power delivery, etc. I'm guessing the vacuum line service helped along with the refreshed valve body in the trans. Actually I'm sure all the maintenance that was performed is contributing to the truck's overall feeling of healthiness. Which makes dealing with this SCR issue all the more frustrating.
Done a bunch more googling and turns out information is indeed scattered all over the place on this issue, but a couple threads are basically gold when it comes to how to clear the 200 mile to no start code. Located here on bfest and here also on bfest. Sorry to the powers that be if linking to another forum is not kosher, but the info is important and took me quite a bit of time to find it. Just didn't use the exact right key words to pull it up amongst all the other chaff out there. Most threads involve the dealer shot gunning parts at the truck while running through the test plan. This post was particularly important.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Rockfordw
Rheingold scr test procedure
First manually empty and refill def tank
Remove def injector, leave it connected. Then run test which actuates injector for a known time, catching injected fluid. Measure fluid, if ok, proceed.
Rest of test is automated.
1. It tests all three temp sensors, running engine at 1200, then 1900 rpm to heat it up.
2. If temp sensors ok, turns off def injection, runs engine at 1900 rpm for 5-10 minutes, which flushes all def from scr
3. Compares nox sensors response in mv. If same within tolerance, proceed.
4. Run engine at 1200 rpm to cool off exhaust system, about five minutes.
5. Turn on def injection, run engine at 1900 rpm until scr is saturated, 10 minutes or so.
6. Compare nox sensor mv, if within tolerance, about 1 to 4 downstream to upstream, passes test. I dont know what it does if doesnt pass this test as mine has passed all four times I ran it.
7. Run engine at decreasing rpm to cool off oxidation CAT, DPF and SCR.
8. Says SCR is functioning correctly, then asks if SES light still on. If so, next message is " change both NOX sensors."
SES is illuminated after 4 complete drive cycles with out of range values from the sensors. Drive cycle is cold start, drive until SCR reaches operating temperature, drive some period of time with SCR system functioning.
Problems are difficult to pinpoint. My car passed the test twice with old sensors, once with new front sensor, once with new front and new rear sensor, yet the light still comes on. Very disappointing. Seems bad SCR is possible.
Also, just for anyone who needs to know, the front NOX sensor can be used for both positions as the only difference between them is the length of the wire bundle to the physical sensor. Wire connected to pin 5 on the front sensor processor is pulled to ground and causes the NOX sensor processor to specify "pre-scr" values. Pin 5 not used on post-scr sensor.
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What I have gathered/done so far:
- I screwed up by initially clearing the SCR inefficiency code 4D16 which triggered the countdown to no start condition about 50 later.
- I then further screwed up by filling the DEF fluid in the tanks.
- I then ran adaptation/initialization of the NOX sensors/SCR system via the Foxwell which was now pointless as the complete test plan must now be run in ISTA after receiving the 200 mile error code.
- Drove 40 miles 2x at 70+mph monitoring NOX sensor readings before finding the above post hoping the adaptation would clear the no start. It, of course, did not, as the car will not perform a regen with these codes.
- Checked my metering valve, clean as a whistle. From reading this is almost never a solution
- Spent 4 hours unsuccessfully trying to install ISTA-D/Rheingold on a Win10 laptop. I'll give it another shot now that I think I have figured out where I went wrong after some more reading.
That's where I'm at now. Here's a pic of the metering valve/injector for S's and G's. My next CoA is going to be getting ISTA up and running. Go through the test plan and anticipating it will fail one, or both, of the NOX. If it fails either one, I am replacing both. Not sure if I want to drain/fill the DEF fluid itself though I suppose it could have gone bad sitting in the truck for 16 months+ even though it was being moved around from time to time. Yep, being lazy, I'm aware.
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