Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn
A stripped Etorx can usually be resolved with a slightly smaller spline socket. Or a rounded bolt removing socket.
I have both and some non stripped e10 I can get an idea of the exact size you need.
Hammering the too small socket on it helps break it free.
|
Good Morning andrewwynn - interesting suggestion on the spline sockets. I don't have any - and thus haven't tried this idea yet.
I've been using this set:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-M...ACT5/300703144
Due to the access issues; it's been difficult to hammer the socket onto the bolt head. There's no real visibility either, so I cannot tell if I'm at a bad angle, or what is keeping the socket from getting fully engaged. If you're familiar with the engine, I'm attacking the bolt from the wheel-well using a combination of socket extensions (the wheel and liner have been removed).
Quote:
Originally Posted by ard
Im not familiar with that motor, so..grain of salt here
Can you get a wirefeed welder in and weld a torx but right onto the head?
sand/grind to get fresh metal, weld the sucker on.
Keep the ground clamp close to avoid currents into the motor electronics.
A last resort, IMO
|
Good Morning ard - Great suggestion, but I don't believe there's enough access to be able to do this safely. That said....I have a friend who is a more experienced 'novice' welder than I am and I may engage him to see if he's feeling brave enough to give it a shot.
==
I'll look for some spline socket today and may also look to find something more solid than my socket extensions to try and hammer that extraction socket onto what remains of that bolt.