As I stated, I tried to simplify my install, looking for a switched power source underhood (not finding a good one), and attempting to use the simplest attachment method (couldn't use the push-thru rods for lack of clearance).

When I decided to supply my own power thru the firewall, then I opted to add a manual override switch, as well, taking advantage of the "sleep" mode to power it. I used a cheaper thermostatic switch, but that can be changed later, if insufficient.

I'm waiting for the cigarette-lighter-plug power wire to complete the install. The aluminum frame/brace was a trick I've used before with pre-existing shrouds (for quick removal from race cars), so it wasn't a big deal. Actual time spent "fabricating" may be 4-5 hours, mainly from working in the heat, finding the right tools (spread out in about seven project locations), and being 70. I'm in no rush. And, I haven't done a fan install in 10 years.

I saw that you chose a Flex-A-Lite 118 (2500 cfm) for your 4.6L engine; I went as large as I thought I should for my 3.0L engine, a Flex-A-Lite 238 (3000 cfm). I couldn't find a fan with greater cfm, without a much higher current draw, so it should do. I usually overdo things, since I was always building up my race cars to a higher hp level...old habits never go away. Here's a chart that's pretty accurate about cfm requirements.

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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01
topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car"

Here:
14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E
09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E
04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E
98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E

Gone:
66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake
08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E
69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350
86 S10,2.8L-700R4
73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4
72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4
64 VW,1.2l-MT4
67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727
56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide