Quote:
Originally Posted by CapeX5
You just need to stop now. You are way over your head here. And I am saying stop before you hurt yourself or someone else. Your skill level/understanding of these engines is minimal. First off, you don't know where the low compression is coming from. Could be valves, piston rings, blown head gasket. So your nail file trick was useless. And thinking you changed the timing by rotating by hand. Can't happen. ALL OF THAT GASKET Material is not necessary, NONE! Lastly, this is a fuel injected motor that when operating properly will start right up and not need any excessive cranking. You totally missed something upon assembly and when it didn't start right away you should have stopped right there and diagnosed. Either do some research or take the car to a reputable shop.
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Thank you for your concern but I'd like to think I have a bit more than minimal knowledge. Let me explain how I got here a bit more..
Firstly, I have come to the conclusion of valve leak after multiple compression and leak down tests. The issue was with cylinder 6 on bank 2. Bank 1 and most of bank 2 cylinders had around 180 - 190 psi which I believe was good for a 200k+ engine. Cylinder 6 had around 140 psi. Although it was not so bad, mixed with the constant noise of ticking (after rebuilding then replacing all the lifters) I thought there might be something I could do about it. Then I did a leak down test and it confirmed that there was a leak on intake valves. I first used some german made foaming solution to clean the cylinder and the valves multiple times (Blue Chem carbon X) which did not change much. When I looked inside the chamber with a borescope, it was mostly clean inside but I thought I saw Carbon deposit spots on intake valves. I thought the reason would be the intake valve seal leak which would drop oil on top of valves and burn then to cause carbon spots. (I changed the valve seals to stop that from happening). So, I had to decide on how to clean the valves further. It would either have to be taking the head out and re-seating them or taking the intake out and trying to clean them with paper based very fine nail files first.
So, I took the intake out and had access to valves from top and did the work and put the intake back in. I agree with you that there is no gasket maker needed on intake gasket area but as I mentioned, one of the ports was slightly worn out and that worried me so I applied 'some' there which obviously was too much and caused a blockage which I believe eventually caused a fuel wash of cylinders.
I am also aware that it's 'almost' impossible to break timing by turning the crank by hand but a friend was actually successful on doing that when he was putting the transmission back on (which I rebuilt for him) and as he was putting the flywheel bolts back on, something was stuck and he was powerful enough to loosen his bank 1 exhaust camshaft which we found out when we took the valve cover off. I also re-timed his engine and it is nicely working now. I am aware of how much torque is put on the cams to tighten them, I re-timed my car multiple times when I worked on my lifters (rebuilt first, replaced second).
Now, I am still dealing with fuel washed bores. I cleaned them up off fuel and put some minimal oil in there to get the compression back again and cranked the engine multiple times but I can't seem to get compression from some of them. Unfortunately, I got some bad advice on how to start the car in this situation (trying to start the car WOT, activating clear flood mode which apparently does not apply to many BMWs) which seemed to make things worse I think by flooding the cylinders again.
Once again, I appreciate your concern and I'd like to hear from you about what else can be done. Andrewynn who posts here all the time, tells me to use starter fluid to get the engine going and establish compression that way..
Any other ideas?
Cheers,
Ozzie