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I've got one key prone to failure, too, plus work-arounds
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn
...My remote doesn't work so I am on my 3rd repair and I keep a spare in my glove box. (and a backup method to get into my car when the lock cylinder fails)
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Mind sharing your backup entry method?
Since I only have one original diamond key (with a new battery, and a bad soldering job...so it's questionable how long until it fails), and two new e-bay diamond keys (as spare remotes, after I did the initializing procedure; they came sealed, with Cr2032 batteries, but not cut for the physical operation of door or ignition...I don't think they'd work without BMW programming), I now carry the original plus a backup remote (in a belt pouch) just in case the original's solder job comes loose.
I also have a small jumper clip in that pouch, to be able to connect it to the jumper posts under the hood (via a 5-foot ring terminal harness), so I can supply power to a "dead" battery, in the case where I also can't use the physical door key. I also carry an extension for that harness in my belt pouch, for external power supplies.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01
topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car"
Here:
14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E
09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E
04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E
98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E
Gone:
66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake
08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E
69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350
86 S10,2.8L-700R4
73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4
72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4
64 VW,1.2l-MT4
67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727
56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide
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