The pic I posted is not upside down as I see it. If the text in the pic is right-side up, the pic is as well. No guarantees what the site or your browser are doing. I think things are clearly labeled in the pic as far as swing arm, starboard, etc. The thread I link to above has that pic with more info and explanation.
Regarding toe vs camber alignment back there, the forward upper control arm is called the "guide link" and its eccentric bolt
(#7) and washer (#8) are for primarily adjusting toe. The lower control arm is called a "swing arm" and the eccentric bolt (#18) + washer (#19) on there are for adjusting camber. I probably have bolt and nut sizes and torque specs in that thread. There is some cross-coupling of toe and camber, so you iterate between the two. Also toe has a much tighter spec than camber, so toe is the final one to be adjusted.
I have done both toe and camber on my car, probably reported details in that thread linked above.
Distance from the underside of the fender lip to the underside of the lower wheel rim will be only very slightly affected by camber change, so I believe the measurement will still be sufficiently reliable. Main purpose of that would be to see if the rear is still 1" lower as you modified it to be, or if it has dropped lower, which would explain some camber change.
To measure camber accurately, my method is to park it on flat and level ground (at least side-to-side), and use a straight edge on the wheel rim edges, measuring camber angle (relative to gravity, but since ground is confirmed level, it is a direct measurement) using the Klein Tools 935 DAGL, which easily gives better than 0.1* accuracy.
https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/l...ammable-angles