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How to make a big heavy SAV (SUV in common terms) handle.
Lots of geometry engineering in the suspension parts front and rear
Lots of moveable end joints on the control arms
Big fat lower ball joint to control acceleration and deexcelleration in the rear with anti squat characteristics
Add in rubber bits to control NVH coming into the cabin space

All of these wear parts have a life to them. DEpending on the driver(s), road conditions and weight of the right foot, all the suspension arms, joints, and links are TOAST at 100 to 150k on the six bangers. On the V8 models a whole lot less.
Take at look at any of the BMW suppliers (FCPeuro, ECStuning, etc) see their complete suspension kits and plan on a long weekend of wrenching.
There are eccentric adjustments on the rear suspension lower arms and the control arms to pull in most issues after replacement.

If you want to get great tire life with all kinds of impact on handling have any idiot with an alignment rack to set the camber as close to zero as possible

On the rear toe, getting on the low side of the toe in is a best practice as that is where most of the rear tire wear occurs.
There are literally hundreds of posts in the DIY section at the top of the form on proper alignment techniques and suspension rebuilds.

It is just a bunch of bolts. The results will amaze you.

Tip of the week: hose down the parts with your choice of WD-40 product 2 days before you start.

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2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green