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Old 01-26-2022, 10:09 AM
Aidzer0 Aidzer0 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henn28 View Post
Well that sucks Aidzer, but at least you know now. And as long as the driveshaft is out you can do the splines if they look suspect and the giubo. There is also a very good thread here about the driveshaft/giubo spacer route guys take to resolve the spline issue. Since you’ll have the motor up off the mounts, I’d pop new engine mounts in too.

The Bentley manual diff replacement instructions are pretty good, except you don’t necessarily need to remove the left engine mount, if you aren’t going to replace it. The top aft bolt on the diff is the long one and won’t come out because the subframe/mount is in the way. Stupid design. The other three are much shorter and don’t have clearance issues. Regardless, you can work the diff out and then back in with that bolt still in the diff, or if you get the motor high enough (several inches) you can at least get the bolt all the way out of the diff with the space made between the diff and the mount.

As far as getting the diff in and out, it’s heavy and needs to go up into its “area” head-first and towards the back of the oil plan/subframe area, then rotate 90 deg or so, then move forward so you can get two bolts started to hold it in. It’s at least 45 or 50 lbs so I got it started upwards with a floor jack, but the rest was bench pressing. All while trying not to damage the outside seal, or the inner o ring seal that is supposed to be protected by a flimsy metal sliding ring (presumably slides back to expose the o ring as you torque the diff into the oil pan). The metal ring kept on popping off as I wrestled the diff into place. No leaks though so it’s tougher than it looks I guess.

An engine hoist would be best for lifting the motor and two floor jacks on either side will allow you to drop the sub-frame easily onto jack stands. You may need a little trial and error as you find the right amount of space between the motor and the subframe to maneuver the diff out.

Finally, one of the guys here recommended Amsoil severe gear oil in the collapsible bag. The filler hole is a bit hard to get to, so the collapsible bag worked like a champ for me. Three bags were more than enough for the front and rear diffs. I think each bag is 1 quart, delivered to your door. The plugs can be a pain, and mine did come out finally, but I’d recommend ordering new ones. They take a giant hex head for some bizarre reason. Another tool that only has one use…thanks BMW.

Amazing information!! Thank you so much!

Regarding the driveshaft, I had one hell of a time getting it out because it is the 1” extended spline shaft, the job was done by PO. I actually took an angle grinder to the input flange on the diff since that’s going to get swapped out, i literally took off about 2 mm off of the diff flange and the drive shaft popped out without the transfer case needing to come off.

Good idea on the engine mounts!! I’ll definitely do that, I’m also thinking since the n62 motor has that stupid alternator bracket seal/gasket issue, while I’m in there I might as well change that.

Regarding the diff oil, I just turned the drivers side wheel and I have access to the hex fill plug, I did notice that it has a green o-ring, so I’ll see if I can get those too. I’ll also change out the rear diff and transfer case fluid while I’m there.

So the shopping list for me so far is;
Alternator gasket
Both axels (just in case)
Diff 4:10 ratio
Both sides output shaft seals
Engine mounts
75W90 gear oil (I have a transfer pump if needed)
Hex fill/drain bolts or o-rings for front and rear diffs

Would there be anything else that I need while I’m there? Thanks!!
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