Get a current read on starter to determine if it's worn out. They will pull up to double normal when they wear out. You can get a load test on the battery to get a sense of it's shot but if it was dead flat from non use I would replace it. AGM if you drive on bumpy terrain.

I did just outer CV joint when the boot failed because i could get OEM outer for a steal.

My rear air springs lasted over 200k mi (330 km), no need to preemptively replace. Wife had one fail at 78,000mi and I only replaced the one side.

Find my awr-fix (search title) on the door handle carrier (dhc). There is a way to make them more robust.

If you have a valeo alternator, look into the brushes/slip ring kit it was $20 on eBay else just the brushes and find my thread on how to reverse the polarity on the brushes because only one slip ring gets the majority of the wear.

Both mine and wife alternator brushes lasted about 160k mi.

Fuel pump siphon jet has a design flaw from a 30¢ part and will eventually cause fuel starvation at ¹/₄ tank of gas: search title for awr-fix on the topic. The o-ring fails very easy fix for pennies vs. replace entire sender unit like dealer will do.

Nice low odometer model. Maintain well you should get 6-8 years out of that car maybe more.

It's highly unlikely the fob battery is the issue more often than not the solder joints or the button switches are the problem. Used to be a guy that would refurbish for $60 (he would replace battery also included).

There is a way to measure the battery voltage with a couple pins I'm not sure if I tagged with awr-fix in the title but i have a write up where exactly to poke pins through the button rubber to measure the voltage and confirm the battery is ok and even if the fob is transmitting (as vBat will drop when button is pressed). Often if the fob isn't working the battery just needs charging by being in the ignition switch for a few hours (eg drive with the flat key for a week). Then re-sync both keys.

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2011 E70 • N55 (me)
2012 E70 • N63 (wife)