
11-09-2022, 11:17 AM
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henn28
My plan to take a couple hours and "pop" on new front pads and rotors in the driveway ended up being a bit of a hassle. The brake work went fine and aside from noticing the rubber dust boot on the right caliper piston was working itself free, the TRW ceramic pads and Zimmerman rotors went on hassle free. I'll need to address the dust boot with a rebuild eventually.
My initial runs up to 40 or 50 mph to bed the pads and rotors seems to indicate that the vibration on braking I was feeling between 60 and 30 mph or so was gone. I haven't had the car out on the hwy though to test for sure. Frankly though I'd be surprised if the brake job fixed the vibration since I wasn't feeling it in the steering wheel. It feels like a classic worn control arm bushing, however, both arms on the front suspension are new and I just had an alignment. The tie rods also check fine, but I do need new front struts soon. Perhaps worn struts can cause vibration on braking? The indy who works on the X occasionally also thinks that the lift, 275 tires, etc. may simply be overcoming the stock bushings. I'll update this when I get the car on the highway. Regardless, it isn't very livable and my plan is to keep replacing worn parts over the next several months (struts next probably) until and if I eliminate everything but bushings. At that point maybe I'll switch to stiffer bushings in tension struts first.
At any rate, true to form, the X decided to start rubbing the back of its calipers on the inside of the 16" wheels when I first took it out to bed the pads. I had already taken about 1/32nd off the back of the calipers with a grinder, but I supsect they got hotter than normal, and perhaps the brackets and calipers shifted a nano-fingstrom during the brake change. Back out with the angle grinder. Seems to be fixed, until and unless they get really hot ever I'm sure.
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That's the downside of sliding calipers. The clearances change depending on pad wear. You may also want to replace the guide bushings as they allow increased play as they age.
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While under the car trying in vain to check the clearance on my back, I did notice evidence of fluid on the bottom of the bell housing. The motor and subframe stiffener was thankfully clean as a whistle thankfully. I was initially getting some oil weeping from quite a few the oil pan bolts when I put the new motor in so I gently retorqued them, which seems to have worked. So unless something oily is leaking down from the back of the motor, I can only assume that the torque converter has small leak. It doesn't seem too cosmic and I'm planning a fluid drain and refresh later this month. More to follow when I get it up on a lift.
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Oil in this location is often valve cover or rear main seal. Rear valve cover leaks can be pretty deceptive unless you just get your hand back there. Generally, it's pretty obvious when ATF is leaking.
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2011 M3
2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
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