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Old 12-18-2022, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoonerBred1963 View Post
My long national nightmare continues. It has now been 4 weeks since it crapped out on me. Just as a recap, and putting things together, when I picked it up after the gasket changes, I drove it about 20 minutes before I started getting a Stop Engine Low Oil pressure signature.

So far, this is what we have thrown at it:

Bank 2 Cam position Sensor (A) (the one with the pig tail),
VANOS solenoid intake Bank 2,
eccentric shaft sensor Bank 2,
4 coils,
3 plugs,

Also cleaned up the wiring on Bank 2 VANOS solenoid, wires were brittle.

It seemed to me that it began running much smoother when VANOS 2 intake was switched out. I still got misfires, 2,3, 5, 8, but it did not backfire hardly at all, and overall less noise.

So here is the kicker, it was running smoother, and we let it run longer than we had previously, about 20 minutes, we were about to go take it for a test drive around the block when we got out Stop Engine Low Oil Pressure light. Before we had never let it run 20 minutes, so that must have been the deal. Up to temperature enough to thin it out?

I am very disheartened, I can't really believe this because it ran like a champ before.

So I still have these problems: misfires, out of time, and now Stop Engine Oil Pressure Low after 20 minutes. We checked the volume and it was at maximum.

There are plenty of threads around about low oil pressure, most say the pump almost never fails. We are changing out the oil sending unit in the morning because its just cheap to do so. But I am wondering about people saying the Vanos seal can leak oil and drop pressure. Are they talking about the O ring that fits between the solenoid and the block, or something else? Could that be the thing that gives me the combo misfire and low oil pressure?

So far we don't think anything is wrong with the bottom end, and he has visibly inspected the top end and says it looks very clean.

he. does have a scanner a very sophisticated one that has over 240 parameters, so we are looking at that.

One thing to note on that, we are not getting any VANOS solenoid codes(we were before we changed it out)but still gettin a A camshaft position sensor Bank 2 code, which we have already changed out.

The rest are misfires.

So, obviously, the big deal is the Low Oil Pressure, but it may not be real if the oil sending unit was bad, but it seems like that would go off at the very beginning, and it seems it has to heat up and get to temperature before it goes off.

Any help or thoughts appreciated.
You have two concurrent problems going on. I feel bad for you, because the technicians' haven't done their job correctly.

The N62B44 has a two-stage oil pump. The first stage is used during start-up and once the oil is warmed up, this is deactivated and then second stage is activated to provide more pressure at low engine speeds. Pressure specs at the pump with room temperature 20*C oil are 1 BAR at idle and 4-8 BAR at full unladen engine speed (6500) . Why didn't your previous technicians thread an adapter with a hose to a gauge. At the oil pressure warning sensor port. This is common sense diagnostics.

Camshaft bank codes can be caused by stretched timing chains, a failed hydraulic tensioner or a damaged guide. Really need to be using INPA in the correct menus to determine what's going on, and to determine if the timing is indeed correct.

Third, all coils should be bench tested, along with plugs inspected.

Because the oil pan and sensor were removed/changed was the oil sensor reset procedure performed ? What about the ram_backup cleared, this has to be done once vanos solenoids are replaced.

https://accuratediagnostic.blogspot....n62b44-v8.html
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2003 4.6, esotril blue, over 215,000KM. Every previous owner failed to keep up the vehicle maintenance. Restoration project.
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