Hah! Our definition of fun is quite different.
Even with the AGA tool... which I intend to use when I finally break down and do mine, though I will remove the valvetronic for extra clearance. I don't consider it fun.
And yes, pros will use the tool... do it in a day and still charge $4000. The shop I was at certainly did.
The BMW time involves taking off the heads, which mostly explains the craziness.