I found a place to do a breeze-free smoke test. The local mall's parking structure has a section that is rarely used and out of the way. The smoke test revealed one split on the intake boot small elbow. The split is relatively small and I don't think it could cause the heavy bogging and no power conditions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech
Have you driven with the maf disconnected (before starting engine) ?
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So I tried this and the engine immediately ran better. No bogging and the power was back, all the way up to redline. The best it has run in months. I cleared the codes, did a couple more drives and the only code that came back was P0102 for Mass air flor sensor.
Due to only finding one small vacuum leak and the engine running fine with the MAF disconnected, I believe the MAF is failed. Which is confusing because there was never a fault for the MAF and it's live data seemed to indicate it was functioning.
Nevertheless, this is the strongest diagnostic test result so far.
I'm planning to buy a new MAF and intake boot. But before I buy, is there anything I'm missing out on or not considering?
Smoke test machine notes and lessons:
The $70 Solary smoke tester from amazon worked pretty well. It lightly pressurizes the system and makes plenty of smoke. The included rubber cone fitting was too small for the intake boot. I tried using a funnel duct taped to the boot but it would not seal no matter how much tape was used. The smoke pressure easily pushed past the tape, filling the engine bay with smoke. I then got a pvc plumbing cap and 1/8" brass barb from the hardware store and it fit and sealed.
Something I realized about using a pressurized smoke machine is when it reveals a leak smoke pours out and quickly fills the engine bay with smoke. This makes it difficult to see any other leaks, especially ones that might be smaller. So after the intake boot is replaced I'll do another smoke test to make sure there's no additional leaks.
